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1020 and 2040 hydraulics

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machinery-man

05-11-2006 09:14:01




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I have been restoring the above two tractors. The remaining thing is checking hydraulics. Neither tractor will hold up attachments without engine running. I don"t know if this is normal or not or what part to replace. I would assume the seals on the pistons. The 2040 needs the brank band replacing and I think I can do this from the top. Any comments on any of these procedures would be appreciated. Thank you, Chuck

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Tx Jim

05-12-2006 05:26:36




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 Re: 1020 and 2040 hydraulics in reply to machinery-man, 05-11-2006 09:14:01  
M-man,I agree with jdemaris just want to add the need to check thermal relief valve for leakage while you have cover off. Tx Jim



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machinery-man

05-11-2006 19:30:47




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 Re: 1020 and 2040 hydraulics in reply to machinery-man, 05-11-2006 09:14:01  

thanks for advise. I plan on taking off the unit and replacing the orings. I agree this is probably the problem but wanted advise. Thanks for responding.



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jdemaris

05-11-2006 17:37:53




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 Re: 1020 and 2040 hydraulics in reply to machinery-man, 05-11-2006 09:14:01  
The hitch leak-down with the engine off is not normal - it indicates a leak and will usually cause engine overheating. The most likely causes are #1 the piston seal, #2 the adjustment screw on the rocker-arm is out of adjustment, or #3 one of the valves is leaking. The orignal piston seal was only a single o-ring with a teflon backup washer - but the replacement parts have been upgraded. The rocker-arm screw determines free-play in the two valves. If it gets too tight, the valves will constantly leak. It can be adjusted with a screwdriver. The valves themselves are easily replaced - there are two - but they are the least likely to be the problem. The tractor will be pumping high-pressure oil constantly to make up for the leak while running. This will cause excess heat and lead to engine over-heating in hot weather, and also make it crank over hard.

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