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unstyled A Gas tank cleaner

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donwisc

04-14-2004 20:27:48




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Picked up a stuck A last week and all was going very well including getting it unstuck until I started looking to run some gas thru the lines. This tractor had been stuck for about 4 years with about 5 gal of gas left in the tank.

I cant believe the mess Ive got, there is about a 1/4 inch of muck the cosistancy of tar on the bottom.

Im sure others have run into this situation and Im looking for what ever advice you may have. I have a good power washer but need to know what will break up this Goop

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donwisc

04-15-2004 13:21:44




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 Re: unstyled A Gas tank cleaner in reply to donwisc, 04-14-2004 20:27:48  
Thank Guys for spending all the time to spell out the procedure. Ill post how this turns out..



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Chris

04-15-2004 10:54:47




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 Re: unstyled A Gas tank cleaner in reply to donwisc, 04-14-2004 20:27:48  
I usually let the old muck soak in Kerosene for a few days and give it good rinsing with Kerosene after that. If the tank is in decent condition (not rusted too thin) You can take pea gravel and water and shake it around in the tank to remove any flakes of rust. Then get some Kreem Gas tank sealant and give it a good coat. Has worked for me in the past. Hope this helps.



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F-I-T

04-14-2004 21:24:15




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 Re: unstyled A Gas tank cleaner in reply to donwisc, 04-14-2004 20:27:48  
Don:

Here's my standard remedy for cleaning out a tank. You may have to repeat parts of this procedure. Good luck!

You can have three different things to remove in that tank: dirt, gelled/varnished gasoline, and red rust.

Couple of things you don't want to do:

1) Disolve any plating (like zinc) from the inside of the tank

2) Make a near rust through hole a real hole.

3) Use acid so strong that you generate a significant volume of hydrogen gas...

That's why I am not a fan of muriatic acid (a comon blend of Hydrchloric and Sulfuric acids) which some people advocate, except to clean masonry.

Lately I have been doing the following:

First, if accessible, insert a small length of chain to use as an agitator. Be careful to remove any tank gauge floats if applicable.

If I think it's just old organic sludge in the tank, like boiled off gasoline, try acetone first (cheaper), then try MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). MEK will do the job, but be sure to use it in a well ventilated area, eye protection, ....yadda, yadda....you know the drill. 2 quarts should do the trick.

If dirt remains, it's probably water soluble, put a cork in the bottom, and fill with hot water and lye. Soak over night, drain, then power wash every where the nozzle will reach.


If you then see any visible rust in the tank, go to the discount auto parts store, and buy some Phosphoric Acid. It's kind of greenish, and it is sold by them to treat (convert) free rust into the black iron oxide and iron phosphate. Now this stuff is dilute phosphoric acid, but remember, not all acids are alike. This stuff will eat metal, but at it's low strength, about all you will get is a good etch. It WILL turn the old rust black, and that rust patch will then be chemically inert. The tank must be oil free so the acid can get to the rusted metal, which is why I clean it with acetone or MEK, then the lkye, then maybe hot soapy water, or purple cleaner to remove the oily residue from the MEK and slop. Then slosh the phosphoric acid around. Be sure to wear protective clothing and eye protection, etc. (It will bite you nose !). Let it sit for at least 45 min or an hour. Letting it sit overnight won't hurt.

Now, rinse the tank with hot water, or even better, blast it with a power washer. Though they say it will dry to a sandable, primable finish, I like to remove the residue. If you do this, it will shine, and you won't have to worry that you removed too much base metal.

After you wash it, slosh a bit more some MEK in it, and the remioander of the water will be displaced and will pool out the drain. If you are not going to install it for sometime, slosh some diesel fuel in it to oil the fresh metal surfaces because the MEK will have stripped all oil from the metal pores and it will begin to re-rust very quickly..

BTW: I treat my freshly sandblasted parts with this "Phosphatizing" acid, then power wash, dry, and prime. The acid kills any rust I missed, and disolves any remnants of silica from the sand exploding against the metal.

Frank

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F-I-T

04-15-2004 09:17:53




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 Re: Re: unstyled A Gas tank cleaner in reply to F-I-T, 04-14-2004 21:24:15  
Ralph:

Yes, you are absolutely right, that Muriatic acid is a accepted trade name for HCl.

Didn't mean to confuse anyone. I'll try to be more careful.

Frank



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Ralph - Wi

04-15-2004 07:11:37




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 Re: Re: unstyled A Gas tank cleaner in reply to F-I-T, 04-14-2004 21:24:15  
Frank I appreciate all the good information, but I think muriatic is straight hydrochloric acid. At least at one time it came from the treatment of salt with sulfuric acid.



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John

04-15-2004 11:08:16




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 Re: Re: Re: unstyled A Gas tank cleaner in reply to Ralph - Wi, 04-15-2004 07:11:37  
Muratic is dilluted HCl with H20. Could make your own but can be really unfreindly stuff. Might not even be able to buy HCl anymore with government hunting down terrorist and drug makers. Hard enough to get away with a tank of diesel and some fertilizer.



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