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Adjustments of sickle-bar mower

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E. Allison

06-21-1999 08:04:47




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I recently bought a Dearborn 14-1 sickle bar mower. I've got it working but it still needs proper adjustments. Anyone experenced in adjusting the clearance on the knives, etc? Thanks. EEA




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Curby

10-11-2001 01:26:02




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 Re: Adjustments of sickle-bar mower in reply to E. Allison, 06-21-1999 08:04:47  
tilt it back, use serated sections, ensure a good seat between knife and guards, and keep your RPM's up (in comparison to ground speed).



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E.Allison

06-23-1999 08:08:30




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 Re: Adjustments of sickle-bar mower in reply to E. Allison, 06-21-1999 08:04:47  
Thanks for all the help. With time and experience I'll learn but there is nothing like talking with people who know. EEA



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B.C.

06-23-1999 08:02:06




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 Re: Adjustments of sickle-bar mower in reply to E. Allison, 06-21-1999 08:04:47  
It's not an adjustment, but if you've got a pitman rod or a drive belt, you might want to have a spare handy. Pitman rods especially let go from time to time. You might also want to keep a couple rock guards, bolts, knife sections, a few rivets and associated beating tools handy. The rocks, small trees and power pole stays win occasionally.



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TomH

06-22-1999 19:22:27




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 Re: Adjustments of sickle-bar mower in reply to E. Allison, 06-21-1999 08:04:47  
Make sure the knife sections are sharp. I use an angle grinder to touch them up every couple of hours of mowing. Even if they feel like they could cut you there is a real difference in cutting between a really sharp knife and one that's "close enough".



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Paul Fox

06-22-1999 03:41:44




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 Re: Adjustments of sickle-bar mower in reply to E. Allison, 06-21-1999 08:04:47  
The manual for my AC #3 says the knives should clear the ledger plates by "the thickness of a postal card". Other adjustments include:

1. Cutterbar lead...At rest, adjust so that outer end of bar "leads" mower end of bar. This is so that when under tension during mowing, the bar is square with the mower.

2. Sickle timing...Rotate the pitman drive manually, and adjust so that the travel on the teeth is centered over the guards. That is, at the far end of the stroke, they are the same distance to the right of the guards as they are to the left on the return stroke.

3. Drive tension...The AC has a belt drive that can be adjusted, others might have slip clutches or some such. The idea is that the drive is JUST tight enough to avoid slipping in thick hay, but will slip rather than break the pitman stick when it hits a rock or other large obstruction.

4. Cutterbar angle...tip the cutterbar back far enough to let the guards ride up over small obstacles. Too far back will have an adverse effect on cutting quality, so it's a compromise.

There may be others on your machine, but this should get you started. BTW, I'm new to sicklebars too, and most of this information is gleaned from books and advice from other users.

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