Hydraulic fluid pouring from shifter on 641

Any ideas before I start tearing the tractor apart?

The inspection plate with the cotter pin in it leaks fluid. It would seem that if the inspection plate leaked alot of fluid that would mean the rusted line was in between the plate and the pump manifold and wouldnt fill the transmission.

The lines visible by removing the inspection plate look perfect.

Another questions. Someone referred to removing the lift plate... is that the plate with 16 or so bolts that has the lift arms, lift lever, and seat attached?

Lastly, are there any major pitfalls associated with a front rear split ? Is it a simple as taking off the steps and anything else on the outside holding the front and rear togther and then supporting both halves and removing the connecting bolts? Will the output shaft from the tranmission just slide out of the rear section? How do the hydraulic lines disconnect?

Thanks

Will I need to separate the front and rear of the tractor?

Soundguy

another article I have found since has more complete instructions and contradicts your assertion.

QUOTED
If you are looking at the pump on the right side of the engine, there is the manifold that goes from under the pump to the lower edge of the transmission. It is mating to 2 tubes that carry the fluid. There is a small high pressure tube and a large return tube. They can leak either at the mating due to a shot o-ring or the tubes can rust thru. It's important to find the leak. Take off the manifold and check the o-rings. Then the condition of the inside of the tubes. Usually full of crap. You can also take off the bell housing inspection cover (bottom right of the bell housing held with 4 bolts and has a cotter pin in a center hole). You may be able to see if it is squirting oil using a mirror and light. If a tube is rusted or cracked, you can completely clean out all traces of oil in the hydraulic res by taking off the 3pt lift cover and cleaning. Degrease completely. Then find a thin wall tube that will slide inside the tubes. Use epoxy coating to seal it. I seem to recall that 10mm tube fits. (?) It's a bit of a chore, but a long shot better than a split!

END QUOTE..

this sounds easier than a split.. any reason that I would not want to try this first?

Also.. since you want as close to 100% bond on the epoxy as you can get, and don't want a lip to build up around the end being pushed thru ( which can break off and circulate later on ).. I would think it would be prudent to do a f/r split and have the tranny on a bench so you can really clean the IDof that parent tube with something like naptha first.. with a 'rat' pulled thru then with spray carb cleaner.. The tabe the sleave tube.. clean it's od apply a liberal coat of epoxy.. in this case i would not use a quick set epoxy.. but something like regular jb weld.. coat the sleave, then see it you can use a small rod to try to coat the id of the parent tube as much as possible.. especially ont he side opposite of the sleave being pushed in, as much of the epoxy will drop off in the first few inches. Having that extra epoxy will be messy at the ends.. but will ensure a better fit.. cleanup afterwards.. allow full cure, then reinstall.

I don't see a single contradiction... If ya don't like the advice.. Please DON'T USE IT.

Soundguy

What type of material is this tubing? copper, steel, etc, etc?

Soundguy

they dont have 1mm wall thickness stainless. I found another vendor (eagle) that had 10mm OD, 8mm ID tubing that was rated for 4000+ lbs of pressure. McMaster only has .5mm (cant handle 2K lbs) and 1.5 mm (unnecssarily restrictive).

I have enough info now to proceed with this. I"ll inspect the tubes later and post any further ? I may have.

also.. does anyone know what OD the return tube is ?? I figured I might as well sleeve them both.

I could do just regular steel, but id rather do stainless if possible..