need info about 2000 Industrial Backhoe/Loader

It is not difficult to repack the cylinders. The procedure is a bit different depending on year as they are put together differently. Basically, there is a spanner wrench that is used to take the end cap off. then you slide the rod out. Undo the nut that holds the packing together and take the piston off the rod. Then slide the gland down and off.

Take the piston apart, measure the packings. Width, height of the stack, ID, OD. Some o-rings. Same measurements.

Take the packings out of the inside of the gland. May have to work them out or even add some 16 oz pursuasion to tap them out with a brass drift. Same measurements. There is probably a o-ring and back up ring on the outside. Same measurements.

You can take the packings to a hydraulic shop and have them order the parts. (Or just rebuild the cylinder). Or order from these guys.

There is a seal on the gland nut too. Measure it up.

www.hddistributors.com

Download the catalog. 10 meg. It has pictures of all the parts and seals.

The seals for one cylinder are probably around $50 from HD. Probably 75-100 from the local guy. Having it rebuilt may be $200-350 depending.

jb

If not, there were 2 popular hoes. The Ford 713/723 hoe that came in 3 versions - 10', 12' and 14' digging depth. And the Sherman Panther.

The Ford pivot post has the boom cylinder on the bottom and the sherman has it on the top.

Pic of my 723 hoe

jb

Link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Adjustable-Hook-Spanner-Wrench-4-1-2-to-6-1-4-USA_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43994QQihZ020QQitemZ300118572952QQrdZ1

This is a link to my album showing various cylinders being redone.

Link

Hardest part is getting the cylinder caps off. You NEED the correct tool (spanner) to engage the cap. I'll see about taking a pic of the tool. Cost of tool + packing is about 1/3 - 1/2 the cost of a pro rebuild. That's why I have the tool.

The piston nut is another tough one. Last cylinder (the no paint one) took me hanging off the ground from a 3' braker bar on my 24" pipe wrench that was on the 1 13/16 socket being backed off by my 1/2" Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench. It was a tough nut! It takes a well mounted vice to withstand the banging. But as you can see from the pictures, no real fancy setup.

To get that cylinder out, put the boom (part that attaches to the box) and the dipper stick (part that attaches to the boom and bucket) straight out. Use a cherry picker or chain fall to raise the boom up off the ground a bit. Wiggle the boom lift control to relieve pressure. Take off the hoses. Remember to run and get a pan for the 1 1/2 gal of hydraulic fluid. Tap out the boom pin, then the bottom pin on the swing cylinder. Lower the end of the cylinder and slid it under the tractor and out.

Installation involves the reverse of the steps plus some cussing as manipuating the heavy akward cylinder is a PIA. NEVER use your finger to align the cylinder to pin, unless you like to only count to 9.

Take pictures of which direction the grease fitting is on and be sure you get it back there. Or you won't be able to grease the boom pin (needed a second removal.)

The cylinder packings that go on the piston (2 sets) are 1" tall, 3/8" wide and the OD is the cylinder dimetion. Probably 3 1/2 inch or 3". The gland packing is 1/4" wide and the ID is the same as the rod OD. The gland seal is an MCU style (Metal Can urethane)5/16 tall. ID is the rod size the OD is 1/2" larger than the ID. 1/4" wide.

There are 2 o-rings in the piston. Probably PN 568-218. (1.234x.139")

The O-ring and backup ring for the outside of the gland are 1/8" wide. So, the cylinder size is the OD and 1/4" less is the ID. I like to use 2 backup rings. One on each side of the o-ring. Lube everything with hydraulic fluid when assembling.

Take care to NOT BUGGER UP the red ring in the gland. You probably need to reuse that - wear ring.

jb

pictures.