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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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cylinder head studs

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P and R Pete

04-13-2008 12:50:44




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I was cranking the last nut on the last stud in it"s sequence, when it felt like it let go. Thought I broke the stud, but when I took them all back out, the stud, and threads in the block, were OK. I assume the stud wasn"t bottomed out, and between 70 and 80, it started to move again.

So now I"m wondering- should the studs get loctite-d first with the non-permanent stuff? Some of those studs didn"t go in easily, nor the nuts on the studs. I don"t want false torque readings. Should I run all the threads and nuts through taps and dies? I"ll have to farm that job out, but maybe here"s the step to be thorough.

Thanks

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Edpap

04-14-2008 21:33:37




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 Re: cylinder head studs in reply to P and R Pete, 04-13-2008 12:50:44  
i would look over the nuts real good they could be pulling the threads. also mesure the studs to see if any are longer they might have streched. did you put oil under the nuts? if not it could have been binding. if you were at 70lbs on the last nut and you removed the head i would replace the gasket. I never use loctite on studs the next guy to take it out won't like you too mutch
Good luck Ed

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CGtractor

04-13-2008 14:42:50




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 Re: cylinder head studs in reply to P and R Pete, 04-13-2008 12:50:44  
ARP, a manufacturer of after market fasteners has some interesting info about this subject on their website.



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CNKS

04-13-2008 13:22:38




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 Re: cylinder head studs in reply to P and R Pete, 04-13-2008 12:50:44  
Clean the threads on the studs and run a tap into the holes in the head, making sure you get all the filings out. In my opinion the loctite is not needed. Taps are inexpensive, you should be able to do that yourself, if that's what you mean. Some people recommend replacing the studs in your situation.$$$.



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