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oil line ferrule question

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Mike CA

04-12-2008 20:55:25




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It's been recommended to me that I replace the ferrule you see below. I need to cut a half inch of this line and stick it on. I'm going to buy the ferrule in the morning, so I have two questions to make sure I understand this concept:

1) Why is the tapered end of the oil line a bad thing?
2) Once the ferrule is on, and the line is cut, won't the ferrul just slip off anyway? So what is the point of the ferrule?
Sorry for the dumb questions, but something in my brain just isn't clicking with this whole ferrule concept, as far as why it's all needed, and how it prevents the line from leaking. Thanks for any lament explaination that will help me understand.

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D Slater

04-13-2008 07:57:24




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
Ferrule you have is like original and nut looks like also. Only trouble is the original screwed dirrect into gauge without the extra fittings. You need to make sure the adapter fitting you have is made to seal the ferrule inside. If you use a double ferrule they will be longer than the ferrule you have and less threads of the nut will engage into fitting and can strip if tightend to much. Not saying it can't be done, just be careful.

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kfox

04-13-2008 07:23:58




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
Mike, The secret to what type of ferrule you need is inside the nut on the left, in your photo. If it has a taper inside where the line comes through, you have the wrong ferrule. If the nut has no taper but is squared off where the line comes through, it is the right type of ferrule. I think the fittings you have are the correct IH factory fittings, but if the ferrule in your hand came off the line in the dirrection its facing in the photo, it's backwards.The taper should face the gauge. If the old ferrule will still fit over the line it should be useable. Shorten the line back to where the paint ends and screw the two tubing fittings togather tight. Then put a wrap or two of teflon tape on the threads that screw into the coupling. Next step is to remove the nuts on the mounting clamp on the gauge and screw the gauge into the coupling. I've used this method on two old H Farmalls, and it worked OK. ken

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John M

04-13-2008 07:00:13




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
Im kinda with Allen. Id just try and see, whats it going to hurt! Kinda looks like it wasnt tightened enough to start with and just slipped off.



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brainerd dave

04-13-2008 06:49:50




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
It's just a basic compression fitting. Here's an explaination with pictures.



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Allan In NE

04-13-2008 06:01:25




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
Thing looks fine to me Mike,

I'd screw 'er back together and get on with the day.

Allan



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matt from wi

04-13-2008 06:00:16




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
Mike, there are two different styles of ferrules. The one you have in the picture looks like a parker hannifin ferrule with the taper going the length of the ferrule. The widest part going to the base of the nut. The other style is an imperial ferrule, tapered both ways with the center being the thickest. By looking at your picture it looks like you have the wrong style ferrule. As Jim stated you need an imperial ferrule or double taper. The other give away are the fine threads on the fittings you are showing. Parker fittings have a course thread for the nut. good luck Matt

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Mark-IA

04-13-2008 04:13:31




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
Take the old line with you to get the right size ferrule. The parts house or hardware store might be able to cut that line for you.



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El Toro

04-13-2008 04:12:29




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
I would replace the compression tube fitting that's installed in the hex pipe coupling. Home Depot has them and you would then have a new compression nut, ferrule and tube fitting. I would remove the paint on the tubing where the new ferrule will be installed. Steel wool or 400 grit wet or dry should remove it. Hal



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Mike CA

04-12-2008 21:33:01




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
Jim, you should teach!

Oh wait, you aready do! :D Great explanation! Exactly what I needed! Thanks so much!



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Janicholson

04-12-2008 21:44:36




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 21:33:01  
You are welcome in every way. Sometimes a definition that leaves out concepts is worthless. Some can get frustrated with things they know already, but 33 years of getting things across helps. Thanks. Jim



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Janicholson

04-12-2008 21:27:27




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 Re: oil line ferrule question in reply to Mike CA, 04-12-2008 20:55:25  
Dear Mike:
The tapered end of the tube will need to be trimmed off. The end of the tube needs to have a consistant diameter. The following explanation is reality. The new ferrule is different than the deformed one you now have. It will be tapered in both directions (as your old one is tapered in only one (toward your palm in the photo). The ferrule you will purchase will slip on the tube (over the end, and down farther (about one eighth inch of the now not pinched tube will stick out). As the assembly is tightened, the ferrul is deformed on its ends and correctly pinches the tube (actually deforming the tube to a tiny bit as it is pinched). The pinching of the new ferrule locks it onto the tube providing two places of metal to metal seal at each end of the ferrule. The brass fittings also seal as they have internal tapers which are deforming the ferrule. One such taper is in the left compression nut, the other taper is in the fitting it screws into. No sealing material or tape should be used on the compression part of this system. Tape can be used on the fitting screwed onto the meter, and where the compression fitting screws into that coupling.

The ferrule you have and the reason the line was pinched down is because the line was not inserted far enough into the ferrule when it was tightened. This allowed the ferrule to pinch the end of the tube , instead of along its diameter. The end collapsed, and allowed the tube to "squirt" backward out of the fitting. Thus when assembled, the tube pulls out.

I am concerned that your engine has good oil pressure. Check that gauge with a known pressure source to assuer you (and us)that it works. Then assemble as above, it will tighten down correctly, and not come out. It can be ptighened pretty tight, just make sure the tube is pushed in as far as it will go as you tighten it. If it should leak, tighten it a bit more. The ferrule will not be able to be removed from this point on, without cutting off another piece of the tube. It is a single use fitting, that can be removed and replaced, but not the ferrule, or the nut, which will be locked on the line. Keep in touch, Jim

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