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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall 504 Hydraulic Remote Valves...

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Charles Todd

03-23-2008 19:39:42




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Allan, read your post and saw the pictures of the pump. Would this apply to most or all of the IH and Farmalls with the hydraulic pump bolted onto the side of the tractor (ie: Farmall 504). My 504 has to have the throttle gapped pretty good to make my loader raise, lowers fine. The other valve will roll the bucket both directions at fair idle. I have the hydraulic valves tore down on my bench right now, I did not try switching hoses first (dumb).

On one valve I found the un-latching piston frozen in place and the detent balls pitted. Also the detent balls spring is broken and the centering spring actuator is rusted and pitted. Searching CNH Parts right now.

I bought 2 used valves off Ebay for $230 shipped. I hope I can make two good ones and have a spare. I have enough o-rings for 4. I found a place that has the 376385R95 valve, remanufactured, $425 ea!

The same site also has a power beyond end cap for $250. To add dedicated loader remotes, without splicing into my supply and return, I have an idea. Since I have two end plates (one to modify) can I make a power beyond plate? The end plate has o-rings just like the valves. Can I mill/drill through the center of the o-ring groove and tap to accept ORB fittings and use this to power a loader valve or a 3-spool valve bank? Just a thought.

I can take pictures of the end plate if anyone has further help with this matter before I modify a perfectly good end plate (they are pricey, even used).

Thanks,
Charles

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karl f

03-25-2008 07:30:13




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 Re: Farmall 504 Hydraulic Remote Valves... in reply to Charles Todd, 03-23-2008 19:39:42  
i think your plates have a raised crossflow section where two ports are connected by it. the power beyond plates are completly flat, preventing flow to those two ports until the power beyond circuit has gotten its flow.
so modification or fabrication needs to be done, but either way you have a pattern and a good plate.

by the way, i think your valves have a built in float position. you need to hook up your hoses correct so that if you enter the float position, the loader is headed "down" already. the levers pushed forward, while sitting in the seat normally should be the down and float positions and raised will be pulled back. the float can be locked out too if you have all the parts, but it's still not 100% accurate. that's another reason people like to add dedicated loader spools.

karl f

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