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140 electrical problems

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Jimmy Lawson

03-07-2008 15:11:02




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My brother was mowing with my 140 when it stopped running. His son was pulling him back and he popped the clutch to try to start it and it would not, then the coil literally blew up. It has not started since. New coil has been installed. It is a newer model 140, 12 volt, with resistor mounted on alternator. I am hoping someone can tell me where to start and what and how to test. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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TheDurk

03-10-2008 19:22:59




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to ScottyHOMEy, 03-07-2008 15:11:02  

jimmy Lawson said: (quoted from post at 16:58:51 03/09/08) Okay, finally dug out of the snow and back to the barn. I have 12 volts at the amp meter and at the battery side of the alternator. No voltage detected come out of the alternator to the resistor. No power at the coil either. Accidentally put the coil for "with resistor" and there is no resistor in the wiring, just on the alternator. Been reading on here about electronic ignition. Would this solve my troubles ?


The electronic ignition units (that is, their instructions) are emphatic that coil resistance is MORE important than in conventional circuits. So you do need the resistor or the true 12v (no resistor) coil. Second, without voltage to the coil terminal away from the distributor, it will NEVER start--period. Fix these things first before messing with anything else. It's always better to do a conversion on a running machine.

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Hugh MacKay

03-07-2008 18:27:52




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to Jimmy Lawson, 03-07-2008 15:11:02  
Jimmy: What is the serial number of the 140? 140 changed wiring 3 times during the production run from 58 through to 79. I have all 4 wiring diagrams and the serial number split indicating when change took place. If this may help, I can tell what it should have for components.



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Jimmy Lawson

03-09-2008 13:55:09




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to Hugh MacKay, 03-07-2008 18:27:52  
The serial # of mine is 66110-J. I am pretty sure it is one of the newer models.



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Hugh MacKay

03-09-2008 14:08:47




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to Jimmy Lawson, 03-09-2008 13:55:09  
Jimmy I is one of the newer ones. All 140s after serial number 57724, came new from the factory with 12 volt negative ground, alternator charging and key start. If you'd like a copy of the wiring diagram, listing all components, e mail me.



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James Williams

03-07-2008 17:25:39




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to Jimmy Lawson, 03-07-2008 15:11:02  
Jimmy,Is there a fuse holder in the panel,usally power comes through the amp meter through a fuse to the ignition switch,through the switch to the imput to the coil,through the coil to the points,when the points ground it caues a spark through the rotor cap to what ever hole the rotor is lined up with

jimmy



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Jimmy Lawson

03-07-2008 16:13:37




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to Jimmy Lawson, 03-07-2008 15:11:02  
Wow, thanks for all the great advice. I'll check all these things tomorrow and update you guys.



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Janicholson

03-07-2008 16:08:41




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to Jimmy Lawson, 03-07-2008 15:11:02  
First issue is that a 12v system needs either a external resistor in the wire going to the coil (different than the resistor on the alternator), or a coil that is designed for 12v without a resistor.
With that in mind, the coil overheated and boiled the oil inside it. This caused it to explode!. When it exploded, it may have shorted directly to ground and damaged the switch, or wiring to the ignition.
There is a wire that runs to the ignition switch from the Amp meter. From the switch a wire then goes to the Ballast resistor (see above) or the coil positive.

Make sure there is voltage to the input of the switch, then the output of the switch (when on),
then the coil wire where it comes out near the coil, and is attached (or not if none)to the resistor. If these are good, then checking the points and condenser in the distributor is next. The points may have been burnt from excess current flow when the coil blew. Good luck, Keep us in the loop. JimN

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jimmy Lawson

03-09-2008 13:58:51




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to Janicholson, 03-07-2008 16:08:41  
Okay, finally dug out of the snow and back to the barn. I have 12 volts at the amp meter and at the battery side of the alternator. No voltage detected come out of the alternator to the resistor. No power at the coil either. Accidentally put the coil for "with resistor" and there is no resistor in the wiring, just on the alternator. Been reading on here about electronic ignition. Would this solve my troubles ?

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gene bender

03-07-2008 16:08:38




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to Jimmy Lawson, 03-07-2008 15:11:02  
You better take the spark plugs out then take off the dist cap and check to see if the rotor lines up with the tower going to the cycl as its possible you have stripped the timing gears. You will see when you pull the plugs and turn the engine over watching the rotor turn.



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IH2444

03-07-2008 16:00:59




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to Jimmy Lawson, 03-07-2008 15:11:02  
Is the coil getting voltage on the little terminal not going to the dist ?
If not you have to backtrack it.
with the ign on you should get about 6 volts there if the points are closed and 12v if the points are open.
I am not sure the resistor on the coil is for the coil...Might be for the voltage regulator...
My IH 2444 has no coil resistor but it had a 6 volt coil? Darned IH had put a piece of resistive wire in the wiring harness. I bypassed it and put a 12V coil in.

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IH2444

03-07-2008 16:56:52




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to IH2444, 03-07-2008 16:00:59  
OOPs my bad I meant the resistor on the alternator is probably for the voltage regulator.



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Jimmy Lawson

03-07-2008 16:09:26




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 Re: 140 electrical problems in reply to IH2444, 03-07-2008 16:00:59  
Thanks,
I'll check that first.



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