Continuing, Where to Brace 504 Wide Front Axle

Charles: How much do you know about the history of this tractor? Do you have any photos of futher back on chassis? You asked the question, could a 282 fit in between rad and clutch housing. I don't think, 504 all had a long fan shaft anyhow, but I don't think it's long enough for 2 more cylinders.

I had a 504, however I didn't keep it very long, thus I don't remember a lot of detail. My 504 and 656 came with farmland I bought, the owner had bought both tractors new in 67, along with a 2000 loader on the 656. He had changed the loader from 656 to the 504 and had to cut 6" out of loader frame back near rear axle housings. (actually saved the pieces) Since I wasn't going to keep the 504, but wanted to keep the loader, I had to weld those 6" frame pieces back to install the loader on my 560, that's right 560 and 656 have the same length chassis and wheel base.

The reason I raise this, keeping in mind I just don't remember about 504, something doesn't look quite normal with your tractor. That is the reason I asked about more photos. Have you got a 504 that someone rebuilt using some 560 and 656 parts, exculding the wide front? How long is the tractors wheel base? In that era, most 4 cylinder Farmalls were close to 90" wheelbase and small chassis 6 cylinder tractors like 560 and 656 were close to 96" wheel base. Just the 6" from my loader frame difference. Those figures could vary a bit narrow front is not exactly same as wide front, and the after market front end you have may be a bit different also, however they should fall between 88" and 93" for 4 cylinder and 94" to 98" for 6 cylinder.

I do know that between 1962 and 1969-1972 the engine threw a rod and the block was welded in two places on the rear left. (very good repairs). I do not know if a complete overhaul was done. Also at the rear of the sub-frames the rails are welded (very good) to the part with 3 holes that bolts to the belhousing. It was used for cultivating with a center mounted unit. My father moved the hydraulic couplings from behind the engine to the rear since we were not actually farming it.

It had the wide front when my Grandfather bought it. My father has always suspected it was a tri-cycle originaly due to the SLOW turning ratio of 8 turns lock-to-lock. In the beginings of their ownership, he broke the bolts holding the axle. They have been drilled and tapped 2 or 3 sizes up from original. Now I know why...

Our farm was 130 acres at this time, and in 1961 started a 600 head hog feedlot. From this time until the mid-late 70's this was the largest tractor they owned. Then came a Deere 3020, which was needed to pull the 4-yd Reynolds Scraper, 5 shank chisel plow, and 9ft Deere offset disk,(though the 504 could pull them, with it's balls-to-the-wall).

By the late 70's the hog market had shut down many smaller sales barns in the south and made it difficult for smaller operations. In 1981, they liquidated the hog operation, somehow were in the black and the farm was paid for. Then 7 more acres were purchased for a total of 137 acres and 80 head of Brangus called it home.

The little Famall 504 now had two big brothers, the Deere 3020 and a Ford 6610. It was reduced to baling hay, which due to the massive flywheel, it excelled at it. Honestly the PTO is more powerful on the 504 than the 3020. I went to college in 1999 and graduated in 2004. In 2006 I bought 50 acres of timber and have since cut it all.

Now I am in the process of clearing land and making pasture for cattle, goats, and horses, as well as building a house, shop, and barn. I needed a tractor and my father donated the 504 to me with the exception that when hay is on the ground I must bring it back to him for baling (I think it is a labor thing not a tractor thing :).

Take a 2 1/2 X 3/8" strap iron and bolt it to the bottom of the frame rail using a 1/2" bolt.

Run this iron perpendicular and over to the frontend boxwork at an angle and then straight down the side of it. Weld it to the back of the box on both sides of the strap. One on each side of the tractor.

Here's a picture of the later style. All ya gotta do is imitate that strap/strength.

Allan

Also while I have you on the phone. I sure wouldn't put duals on if you are planning to use it as a loader tractor. Duals just plain make 'em helpless and hard to get around in tight places.

Another thing, what would be wrong with just sliding a PTO pump on the back of the tractor?

They really work slick.

Allan

As for duals, I am worried about 2wd, no diff lock, traction. Felt maybe duals would give more surface area to find traction. If not enough, fill all four with water.

As for the PTO Hydraulic pump, it takes up the PTO. I would have to remove it to use a PTO accessory. I did see a pic of an old pump with a PTO output stub comming out of the pump?

Most likely I will just plumb in an open-center-power-beyond valve bank and take the slow cycle rate (12 gpm tractor pump, 45 years ago).