FUDGE! New 140 problem- Hyd unit bleed off

Update. Put 4 bottles of alchohol in the tank, took off the sediment bowl and cleaned it out, took off the carb and cleaned it (including the screen tube on the fuel intake line) had to build a new gasket for the sediment bowl to stop the new leak, checked the rubber hose between the carb and the air intake for obstructions, and after all that.....no real difference. Still has no power under load and wants to drop the rpm down to almost nothing. Idles fine.

Marginally useable so I took it down for some fresh gas, and at the station, the rear blade dropped to the ground. Not in free fall, but really quick. Touch control lever backed down all by itself. After cycling it a couple of times, got the blade up enough to drive home (2 blocks) but had to hold the touch control lever up to keep the blade up. As soon as I parked it and let go of the lever, down went the blade with a clang. Went to pop the hyd fill hole bolt to check fluid level (it's never leaked) and got hot fluid trying to shoot out past the threads! Tightened it back up in a hurry and am letting it cool off.

My new theory? The hyd unit has been engaging trying to keep up this whole time and is robbing me of power. That perhaps the two problems are related. Any thoughts / advice? Thanks!

Signed: one really depressed 140 owner.
Dave

The hydraulic problem definitely will rob power at low idle, and you will notice hydraulic demand even at full throttle, but I don't think the hydraulics would ever stop it from achiving full throttle.

From your description and the items you have tried, my next approach would be the governor. Don't let this get you down, most of us have been through this at one time or another. Inside the governor is a spring and a thrust bearing, usually one or the other or both can cause a tractor to idle fine but not accelerate.

I don't know where the governor is located per se, but if I find it, I'll take a look at that. Just because the fluid overheated, I just drained it and cleaned the tube screen on the left side of the hydraulic unit, then filled it with new hytrans. Left the fill plug out and cycled it a few times, no change, still acting squirrely. Although while I was working the pitch control, about midway through the travel, the engine sounded great for a split second. Then right back to sluggish and slow, so I do think the two things are related. I've got to figure this out, I don't have a trailer to take it to a shop. Oh, after I cycled the levers a few times and shut it down, the new fluid was a tiny bit frothy. Bubbles on top about 1/8th inch thick. But then I didn't get that last little bit of old fluid off the bottom of the case.

This unit was the culmination of a dream I've had for a long time. It tears me up not being able to fix it. I'll adjust the stops on the touch controls to limit travel and see if it won't settle down. Thanks.
Dave

Now, we go to the engine and governors. It is on the right front of engine, where you put the oil in. I've never had this off my 140, I suspect it can be done by first removing the fan shroud. I know they all come easiest with the radiator off. Just 3-4 bolts hold the governor case to engine casting, and linkage from throttle lever and on left linkage to the carb. Inside you will find hinged centrifical weights, those rarely cause problems. There is a spring conecting input and output shafts and those damn springs seem to break every 30-40 years. Also there is a thrust bearing and those seem to fail every 30-40 years. I'd have both of those new before I tackled this, They are both relatively inexpensive items, plus you've done too much labor to leave old spring and bearing. There will be some adjustment required after you reassemble this. There are guys on here right up on that adjustment. It's been 15 years since I had one apart, thus I'd have to follow the service manual.

Back to your hydraulic problem, I've had to adjust those lever several times over the years. It can be as simple as a tree limb has moved the cage around the levers, changing the stop limit on the levers. I've also bumped the cage doing other mechanical work on tractor. If it becomes more serious like a rebuild kit for the touch control unit, I've never changed one, but there a a host of folks on here who have done. Usually the main reason for the rebuild kit is the touch control unit leaking, however there are items inside that can stick or jamb up.

Finally you need to get a wee bit more precise in your descriptions of exactly what is happening, and when. Do you have a service manual, this could help as most folks working on these are using service manual language. Just keep your cool, any of us that have owned one of these tractors for years have been through what your going through. Believe me, it doesn't happen often, and when it does, a Super A, 100, 130 or 140 don't destroy your pocket book.