Lee,
I will make some assumptions.
That you are measuring 12 volts at the socket with a meter or test lamp connected to the tractor on a shiny spot of metal. The problem is that the lamp housing, or the socket in the lamp housing is not grounded. The lamps will run on 12V of either polarity. Which means they do not care what polarity the electricity has as long as it is equal to 12v. To test this idea, use a test jumper from that same shiny ground to the base of the bulb while it is in the socket. I think it will lightThe other issue is more difficult. Changing to a 12v battery, and hooking it up the same way (pos ground) will usually do nothing to charge the battery. Experiment as follows.
With the tractor not running, battery charged up, put your volt meter across the battery terminals. There should be about 12.6 or so volts. If you now turn on the lights (assumes the fix of the grounds above) the Amp gauge should show a discharge of 8 to 10 amps. This is normal.
If you turn off the lights and start the engine, the voltage across the battery should be about 14.2 to 14.6 volts. This is an appropriate charge voltage. and it seems likely that it has been converted to 12V by some one. If the voltage is just the same as it was, or only 13V or so, the generator is charging, but not much. The regulator (if still 6V) will be heating up due to 12 V applied to its regulator. It might not work for very long, but if it is cold, it might work till it gets hot and the smoke comes out.
Using it as a constant loss system is OK. to do that, just disconnect and tape the Bat lead on the regulator. That takes the entire charging system "off Line". The tractor will run all day if started only a few times. It will not run for very long with the lights on.
If there is no ballast resistor put on the coil (or the coil is not changed to a "no external resistor needed") the coil will overheat, and the points will burn out rapidly. I hope this helps.
See my description several posts below to get the full story on changing to 12V. JimN
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