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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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H Farmall pulling tractor

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Farmall H

12-15-2007 05:53:06




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I am trying to figure out how to get more horsepower out of my H Farmall for tractor pulling.




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r4etired

12-15-2007 16:02:07




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 Re: H Farmall pulling tractor in reply to Farmall H, 12-15-2007 05:53:06  
I destroyed a few H blocks in my younger years.The biggest runable bore without sleeves I found was 3.625. and that is barring a sand hole. 3.75 has to be sleeved.Every article I read about upping the hp on an H reminds me of the one I saw break into just behind the openings for the hydraulics while pulling the 4500 open.



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John T

12-15-2007 07:51:02




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 Re: H Farmall pulling tractor in reply to Farmall H, 12-15-2007 05:53:06  
Jim has given ya good advice as theres no substitute for cubic inches n compression so I will just toss out a few more things to save a few precious HP in case youre not gonna go to those measures. GET RID OF HORSEPOWER ROBBERS

1) A fan eats up HP and since the pull is so short you can likely get by with less air flow through the radiator. Things like straightening the blades and balancing the fan can gain some HP to the wheels.

2) A generator takes up HP and if by using a simple toggle switch you disable it during the short pull you save some HP. The potential spark gap energy isnt gonna be reduced much regardless if the battery voltage is only 12.6 versus 13 to 14 during the pull

3) Water pumps take HP. Ive seen dudes use 12 volt electric pumps to use stored batetry energy during the pull instead of using up HP from the engine.

4) Heavy oil eats up HP in the form of heat n friction. Im talkin more about gear n tranny oil here n if its ONLY for pulling LIGHTEN IT UP.

5) Of course theres no need to waste any HP driving any more gears then necessary so disable any hydraulics or PTO as you can

6) Have her tuned up perfect ignition wise and the carb set rich enough for when she pulls down hard n heavy.

7) Cooler air is more dense so try n plumb the air intake away from heat best you can and avoid any unnecessary inlet air restrictions.

8) BALANCE have her set so under a hard pull the front wheel just barely float off the ground so alllll lll weight is on the rears. Of course, that has to change with track conditions and needs to be adjustable.

9) Have the rears set in close and drawbar height as high as permissible plus close to the tractor not wayyyyy yyyyy back. High n close,,,,, ,

Runnin outa smarts here so nuff said

John T

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Janicholson

12-15-2007 07:24:32




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 Re: H Farmall pulling tractor in reply to Farmall H, 12-15-2007 05:53:06  
Assuming that is what it will be used for, not put to work on implements.
From beginning to end these are the Items I would attend to. (some may put them in different order, or add or delete items)
1) make sure it is tuned up correctly and has a good properly advancing timing curve.
2} put a thin wall sleeve kit in it to make it SH displacement. Put the highest compression pistons you can find in it.
3} put a pulling grind reground cam in it, or a 350 cam and drive gears
Tweak the governor (if allowed) to 2100. do not use this as an incentive to run it at 2500, it has three main bearings and is not balanced at the crank journals with bob weights. 4} If distillate head, get a X1 gas head.
5) Shave the cylinder head 0.100" (check piston to Head edge clearance and provide .015" clearance at least) and put in larger valves and a five angle seat grind.
Much more expense with stock external appearance is tough to find. The carb becomes an issue of flow capability, and SH, 300, 350, and M carbs look way different. Premium fuel will be needed at some point, or you will hammer the rings down around the rods.
If that is not a problem,
6} Put on the 400 carb (maybe bigger later)
7) add a hot coil and Electronic ignition.
8) bore the block and run the pistons sleeveless. The boring bar can find water jacket, limit your effort to about .25 total (might be iffy if the casting was made just a bit off with the core patterns) Others may chime in with safety limits.
9} Again put in high compression pistons (now the clearance will be requiring careful dome and chamber carving to clear interference.
10} use higher ratio rocker arms to get larger opening ov valves.
11} have the crank welded and ground for increased stroke. The maximum is money determined as the connecting rods and skirt clearances on pistons, and side clearance on these long stroke engines are rough to get more than .300" additional, but I do not know how much can be squeezed there.
All additional effort will break something expensive. Remember the old saying "bragging rights are expensive for a $3.50 trophy"

In the mid to late 70s I was a neighbor to a Man named Merle Grimm (Sassy Massy tractor name)in northern Ohio. His final pulling tractor was equipped with a GE J-52 gas turbine engine with approximately 5000hp. It weighed about 4500 pounds and could run most weight classes. It had an articulated (steerable rear differential, and hydraulic rear steering.
Its exhaust pressure applied more than 3000 pounds of down force on the front when running at 30% throttle. That man was paid to show up on the pro circuit. He may have broken even if he did not count the labor invested. Best of luck, JimN

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