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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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.040 bearings for farmall M

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Mike Farmer

12-10-2007 12:35:42




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Hi gents. First of all let me say a great big thank you to everyone who has responded to my bearing problem especially D Slater and Teddy. The positive and the negative responses were all equally welcome as it gave me a sound overview of the situation past and present. The actual situation is this. To start with this is a spare engine destined to go into my M hopefully next year. Here are my alternatives with approx costs. In UK spare reusable M crankshafts are as readily available as "rocking horse residue" but I can buy a reworked shaft in USofA with bearings for $450.00 inclusive. Shipping is between $390 and $410 =$850. Metal rebuild and Reworking in UK $600 +Bearings $110=$710. I can have my old set remettalled and line bored =$600. Now set any one of those options against shimming at $110 just for the bearings. In the words of the prophet "No contest".
The tractor is a toy and will not work hard. Never more that four furrows in heavy clay(joke) The worst that can happen is that I completely knacker the crank which is already past its sell-by Date. So unless somebody comes up with something very cunning its shimming time. It may not work for me but I firmly believe that a man who never made a mistake never made anything. Thanks again gentlemen I'll let you know in due course. MTF

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Mike Farmer

12-11-2007 11:26:54




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 Re: .040 bearings for farmall M in reply to Mike Farmer, 12-10-2007 12:35:42  
Once again I've got to tank you gents. When I started trying to find these bearings a core of opinion suggested that they never exsisted and I was beginning to think maybe they were only produced in UK. Then someone said they were once produced but no longer available, now we actually have a set of used ones. So I reckon that they ain't really totally extinct just hiding away in the woods. I believbe that somwhere, someone has a set. So I'm doing nothing about mine for the time being.
About the damage that can be caused, yes I know about that, I've got a Wallis that looks like a chicken after a fox has gutted it, but on this one the end cap fell. (Not ME I bought it like it). So thanks again, I'll keep an eye on this and probably bore you all with this saga later down the line. MTF

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steelfronts

12-11-2007 05:14:32




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 Re: .040 bearings for farmall M in reply to Mike Farmer, 12-10-2007 12:35:42  
Mike, You can have new babbit poured in your old shells and then line bore to size . That is a good fix



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randy hall

12-10-2007 18:48:24




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 Re: .040 bearings for farmall M in reply to Mike Farmer, 12-10-2007 12:35:42  
i have a set of used .040 main bearings for an m that look real good. your idea of putting shims under .030 bearings might work on one and three if you grind the ends off, but how are you going to bend the center main with the flanges on it?



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Steven f/AZ

12-10-2007 15:55:25




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 Re: .040 bearings for farmall M in reply to Mike Farmer, 12-10-2007 12:35:42  
From the other topic:

Like I posted before, my F-12 has been running since 1991 with around 0.020" of shims on the rods and mains. Crankshaft was stamped 0.010" so that's the bearing set that Dad ordered at the time. Wanted it ready for parade duty and didn't have time to wait so we shimmed. The 0.030" bearings are sitting on the shelf, waiting for the day that the oil pressure actually drops below max and/or starts knocking.
Just be sure you file things down so the bearings get a little crush to hold them from spinning in the rods. These old 1600 rpm engines aren't that tough on the bottom end.

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D Slater

12-10-2007 18:03:07




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 Re: .040 bearings for farmall M in reply to Steven f/AZ, 12-10-2007 15:55:25  
True there low RPM, but if worked hard with a 5-1/4 inch stroke and only 3 main bearings and putting out more torque than most V 8 engines did until recent years or what some big blocks used to I don't think I would shim, but its his tractor and may be okay for his use. Maybe because I have seen the results of what happens when a center main bearing spins is affecting my opinion. It not only damages block behind bearing, but also the thrust part of block that thrust sides of bearing contact.

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Andy Martin

12-10-2007 15:51:06




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 Re: .040 bearings for farmall M in reply to Mike Farmer, 12-10-2007 12:35:42  
$600 vs $110 is only $490.

The reworked cranks are just like yours, just with markup.



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Janicholson

12-10-2007 14:58:26




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 Re: .040 bearings for farmall M in reply to Mike Farmer, 12-10-2007 12:35:42  
Bearings for another application is a great solution if you have a real engine parts person at hand. Other than that, I'll bet it will be just fine.
Use steel for the shim, mate the oil holes and make them really match well. Put the bearings in the block very clean and determine the amount of crush on the existing setup, Remove material only from the side that has no tab to get the bearings back to that crush distance. Too much, and it distorts the bearing at the parting line, too little and it is spin city. I built a lawn mower engine by turning the rod journal on a lathe, then making an insert out of T-6 aluminum. It ran for 12 seasons before a different issue killed it. JimN

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billde

12-10-2007 14:34:20




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 Re: .040 bearings for farmall M in reply to Mike Farmer, 12-10-2007 12:35:42  
You have a given O.D. for the bearing, the rod. You have a given I.D. for the bearing,the journal.
Are you sure there is not another bearing out there for another application that would work?



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RustyFarmall

12-10-2007 12:44:04




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 Re: .040 bearings for farmall M in reply to Mike Farmer, 12-10-2007 12:35:42  
Do what you think is best, but be advised that when those "shimmed" bearings fail, not only will the crankshaft be destroyed, but the chances are pretty good that the connecting rods will also be damaged beyond repair, and there is a very real chance that one of those rods might take a shortcut to the outside world right through the engine block. If you want to see expensive, try finding another engine block with a good crank and rods still in it.

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