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560 nf shimmy

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10-24-2007 04:14:51

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what does it entail to fix it?

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Joe Evans

10-24-2007 06:05:19

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Re: 560 nf shimmy in reply to ww, 10-24-2007 04:14:51

The only adjustments are at the pivot shaft top nut which provides take-up on the shaft's tapered roller bearings, and the nut on the end of the worm shaft which I'm not all that familiar with at this point but will soon be.

Access to the pivot shaft is done by removing the radiator and radiator support frame from the upper bolster.

Once you access the top nut, it would be very worth your while to remove the pivot shaft (easy to do) and turn it 180 degrees before installing it. This will put "new" pivot shaft teeth against the piston rack teeth.

Our 460 has front end problems, and I'm in the middle of correcting. It recently developed a bad shimmy, and part of that is due to some bad pivot shaft and rack teeth. I also discovered that the right front tire is not seated properly on the rim greatly contributing to the problem. How that tire change "position" is beyond me, but apparently it can happen. Look at the tires.

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RR Mech

10-24-2007 20:53:39

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Re: 560 nf shimmy in reply to Joe Evans, 10-24-2007 06:05:19

Read the book carefully. There is an adjustment to set the rack closer to the pinion.It entails turning the sleeve some in the housing. The sleeve is built eccentric and can be turned a few degrees to tighten or loosen the clearance. Hope this helps.

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sd pete

10-24-2007 06:00:03

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Re: 560 nf shimmy in reply to ww, 10-24-2007 04:14:51

The u joint right before the steering box could be loose on the shaft.

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John S-B

10-24-2007 05:46:52

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Re: 560 nf shimmy in reply to ww, 10-24-2007 04:14:51

If it's anything like an M, you have to jack up the front, supporting the frame rails with good jacks or cribbing. Unbolt the lower bolster and there should be a housing at the top that once you open it up it should be apparent how to remove the upper bolster, should just drop out. Pretty easy with two people, but if you are handy with a bottle jack you can lower it a bit at a time, securing it with one of those visegrips with a chain when you need to reset the jack. A set of bushings bearing and seals cost me about $150 for the M, a 560 should be similar. You need to get a manual as it should tell you (and show you) how this is put together and how to remove the bolster. I have a couple of pics of the bolster removal of my M in the stuck and troubled section. Just put my handle in the search box.

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