Where does voltage regulator mount on a '48 Super A

Also, what size are is the bolt and the nut/bolt used to mount the generator to the bracket? Is the generator held in by the tension of the belt?

Thanks.
Steve

What I can't understand in all these electrical discussions is why would anyone want to keep a blasted old generator. They were trouble from the day they were new. They are 3 times as costly to rebuild. I was like you folks 20 years ago, except I needed 12 volts on my 130 for operating a 12 volt electric motor on seeding equipment for small vegetables. I decided I'd use both generators to keep my Super A 100% original. Within two weeks both generators packed up, one of them actually caught fire. I was cultivating rutabagas and had to use plant leaves to smother the flames. Off to the rebuilder with both generators. I told him it had to be quick, and it had to be 6 volt, as I had a new 6 volt battery. He responded, "quick with those old generators is two weeks as I don't have the parts, quick with a new 6 volt alternator will be 5 min. as I only have to change the internal regulator on a GM Delco to 6 volt. Same price as the 12 volt alternator with internal regulator." 5 min. later I was on my way. Two hours later I had fabricated an alternator mount and was cultivating rutabagas.

That 6 volt battery lasted 13 years starting in Canadian winters. I have never looked back, my tractor starts better, runs better, generally a whole lot less hassel. I now have 3 alternators on SA, 130 and 140. I like the 6 volt SA as well as the 12 volt 130 and 140. there is nothing wrong with 6 volt, just get rid of those damn old generators, you'll have a lot less gray hair. An if an alternator goes bad, a new one down at your local auto parts store is about 1/3 the cost of rebuilding the generator. I my opinion there is nothing you can do for under a $100. that will improve your old tractor as much as an alternator.

I ended up finding a tractor junk yard so to speak in Maine which is a few hours from me and the guy seemed to have all of the random used parts I need to get up an running for a while.

Thanks everyone for all of the help! The detailed quick responses were great. I am sure I will be back soon with more questions.

That mounting bracket looks like the one on our 140 but not on my 1948 SA. I think they must have changed it after 1948. Im not saying it isnt correct for a SA but just a later model.

The tension bracket does look like the ones I have seen, it has that little offset like I was trying to describe in another post.

Scott has a picture Ill use that shows his bracket and it is like the one on mine and like others I have seen.

OEM sells the top generator tension bracket, part #60714DA, $13,50. The bottom one is kind of just U shaped with a short pipe on the left hand side. The might have used the old mounting bracket to mount the alt., that would have worked.

The top curved piece in Kieths picture is the correct tension bracket. The other ones pictured are not correct for the mounting bracket on any SA I have seen.

Gene has some good info.

Thanks for all of the help.

That arm shown i the picture is for anengine with a water pump, and mounts on the engine end a the front of the pump under the nut nearest the generator.

If you dont' have a water pump, the original bracket was straight and mounted onto a stud through the hole in the water inlet furthest away from the genny, i.e., the inlet was held down on by two bolts into the block. The third hold-down was a stud, where the first nut held the inlet to the block. Above that, the generator arm, which was held down by another nut and lock washer.

I said staight arm. That would be true looking at the flat side of it, but looking at the edge it had a crook so that it could offset around the inlet elbow. The one in the picture is flat, and that might explain the out-of-parallel you describe.

Link

my html skills are no good - when I pasted the image link it told me it didn't like the ?

Keith - Thanks a lot!!! that picture clears up so much for me. Looks like I can heat up my bracket and bend it to where I need it to be. Thanks!

I only have an I&T manual that covers a variety of models - looks like I am going to have to invest in what you have for manuals!

Mine has a alt. and what I did was use #60714DA and added about a three inch piece with a hole drilled in each end. This gave it the offset I need as well as the extra length. I needed the bend like #60714DA has to mount the alt.

The old tension bracket shouldnt be hard to find if you have a salvage yard or something close by. That isnt something that goes bad so its usually there.

The end that mounts to the tractor uses a bolt right above the bottom return neck of the radiator. Your tension bracket will slope down toward the tractor a little. When you loosen the bolt you make have some water come out so dont leave the bolt out long.

Mine is a 1948 too. It was my fathers, he passed away two years ago and I decided to fix it up in his honor. It was used in the rose fields here in Texas for about twenty years. After we got the 140's it was used less and less until it was neglected. My cousin painted it and converted it to 12 volt but then for another 12 years it sat in the barn and parts used off it for the 140's.

Thanks.

Be sure your voltage regulator metal frame is grounded to the tractor frame. Some regulators had rubber anti-vibration mounts and a separate grounding braid/wire which attached under one of the VR mounting bolts. Without a VR ground, the generator won't work.

I have the 4 position switch and magneto. I am guessing that I can just wire it up like the 3 position switch and just use one of the light positions? I will see where on the generator bracket I can mount the regulator. I took off an adjustment arm with the alternator setup, not sure if it will work with the generator. I will look around for pictures and try to come up with a plan.

The generator has a threaded hole for the belt-tightness (slotted) bracket. Just a bolt w/washer - don't know the size.