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Charge Problem Making No Sense

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terryjd

10-02-2007 09:43:19




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On my SC I now have new VR and amp guage installed but still shows discharge, makes no sense. I hook up amp guage, hook battery back up, tractor is not running, turn on lights and amp guage shows discharge of about 8 amps like it should so that is hooked up right. If I hook amp guage with wires the other way it shows charge when lights are on and tractor not running. I polarize the gen, start tractor amp guage shows discharge about 10 amps, turn on lights shows discharge of about 20 amps. I decided to disconnect the battery to see what happened. Know with a car if alternator is good car will keep running. Well tractor will keep running with battery disconnected, turn on lights and they come on, dim but will work on both high and low, high is brighter then low. Amp guage shows nothing, doesn't work with battery disconnected. Now how would the tractor keep running if it is discharging??? Doesn't the amp guage showing discharge with the tractor running mean its just running off the battery? This is making no sense to me, if tractor will keep running and lights work when battery is disconnected the generator must be working, has to be getting power to the coil from somewhere. Am I right thinking that way? Tractor now has new VR and amp guage, still doing samething as the old VR and amp guage did. Would the battery be a problem maybe?? I have had to charge it up before but figured that was from it not getting a charge. Think Battery is all I have left to put on new. Have spent almost $90.00 so far, wife is not too happy lol. Am I right that if tractor was really discharging tractor shouldn't run with battery disconnected? This problem has me stumped. Thanks for any help, starting to pull what hair I have left out lol. Terry

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John T

10-02-2007 13:26:02




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to terryjd, 10-02-2007 09:43:19  
Terry, This is getting too long n complicated so I may as well post my entire long winded Troubleshooting Procedure so you can start from scratch n figure out the cause of non charging cuz you may just have something wired wrong or polarity problems and working through my procedure ought to help with wiring and genny n VR n ammeter connections etc ifffff fff you have the patience to go through it.


TROUBLESHOOTING CHARGING SYSTEMS

ARE YOU SURE THE AMMETER IS WIRED CORRECT AND WORKS????? If you turn the lights or ignition on (if coil ignition not a mag) when she’s not running, the ammeter should swing over to the - discharge direction, does yours??? Are BOTH the ammeter terminals reading hot battery voltage?? They MUST !!!!! ! There’s but one wire on the ammeters Supply (from battery/starter) terminal while its other Load terminal wires to the BAT terminal on a Cutout relay or VR PLUS wires to feed loads like lights or ignition, unless where a 4 terminal VR is used where lights n ignition are fed from the LOAD terminal on the VR.

To Polarize the Generator, first temporarily dead ground the Gens Field post to case/frame, then momentarily flash jump a wire from the Cutout Relay or VR"s "BAT" terminal over to its GEN (or ARM) terminal and you ought to get a small spark. Same things accomplished by momentarily flash jumping a hot wire (BAT terminal on Cutout Relay or VR or starter post etc) direct to the Gens ARM post to get the spark.

TROUBLESHOOTING A CHARGING PROBLEM IN CLASS A DELCO TYPE SYSTEMS

1) For a good working Gen to get to and charge the battery, it has to have a path usually from the Gens ARM post,,,,, ,,,,to and through the Cutout Relay (between its GEN and BAT terminals, regardless if on a VR or Relay),,,,, ,,,up to the Load (NOT to battery) side of the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,to and through the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,,from BAT side of Ammeter to ungrounded battery terminal, often via the starter lug post. Is yours wired that way or equivalent ??? The ammeter should read hot battery voltage on BOTH terminals, does yours??? Even if an ammeter were stuck (but still continuous) as RPM increases the battery voltage should rise from 12.6 to near 14 volts and/or the lights glow brighter (half that on 6 volt systems). Have you tried that in case the ammeter isn’t working right?????

2) If the above is so, the BAT terminal on the VR or Cutout Relay MUST ALWAYS READ HOT BATTERY VOLTAGE. Does yours??? If not, the Gen cant get to and charge the battery.

3) The Gen to VR (if it has one) wiring is as follows:

BAT on VR to ammeters load (NOT battery) side

ARM (or GEN) on VR to Gens Armature post.

FLD on VR to Gens Field post.

(L) Load (if you have a 4 wire VR) up to BAT supply input terminal on switch to feed loads like lights and ignition.

WIRING ON CUTOUT RELAYS: They wire BAT side to ammeters Load terminal,,,,, GEN side to gens Armature post. On cutout relay systems, the Gens Field post is wired to the light switch where it gets a dead ground for high charge or a resistive ground for low charge. Therefore, there must be a good connection from the Gens Field post up to the switch PLUS the switch is good and it’s well grounded !!!!! !!

4. THE GEN AND VR OR CUTOUT RELAY MUST BE WELL GROUNDED AND THE BELT GOOD N TIGHT. If any doubt, run a ground wire from the grounded battery post or clean solid frame member direct to the Gen and see what happens????? ????? ????? ????? ????

NOW, if the Gen and VR are grounded,,,,,all is wired correct,,,,, ,,BAT terminal on VR or Cutout Relay is HOT,,,,, ,,Belt is tight,,,,, ,,,Ammeter is good n continuous n works but she wont charge, have you had the batteries tested lately????? Is there electrolyte above all the plates and no cells have a gray or milky appearance????? A bad battery may not accept a charge you know!!!!! !! If the battery checks okay, proceed below to see if its a Gen or VR problem (AFTER you have insured the wiring per the above)

TO DETERMINE IF ITS A GEN OR VR OR CUTOUT RELAY PROBLEM

5. a) VOLTAGE REGULATOR SYSTEM: With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then but NOT otherwise, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR"s Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isn’t well grounded.

b) IF IT’S A CUTOUT RELAY SYSTEM and she charges only if you dead ground the Field but NOT otherwise, its either a bad switch or the switch isn’t well grounded or else the wires bad or open from the Gens Field post up to the switch. INSURE THAT GOOD SWITCH GROUND AND WIRING

6. If she still don’t charge, leave the Field grounded and jump a wire across from the VR or Cutout Relays BAT terminal over to its GEN terminal (jump by passes the cutout relay) and see if she charges. If then but not otherwise, a VR"s cutout relay isn’t working correct (maybe points burned/carboned) or a Cutout Relays NOT working or not wired correct.

7. With the 2 steps above, you have basically by passed the VR or Cutout relays functions, so if she still don’t charge, you"re left with a bad battery or wiring or the Gen itself.

8. MOTOR TEST. You can Motor test the Gen. If its grounded and you remove the belt and apply hot battery voltage direct to its ARM Post and have the Field Post dead grounded to frame, it should motor n run well (Armature n Brushes and Commutator likely okay). Then, if you next remove the Fields ground and it speeds up some, the Fields probably good. If it passes both those tests, it should charge, and if not, it may be a wiring or battery or grounding problem. The hot battery voltage may be taken off the VR"s BAT terminal or the starter post or the battery itself for this test.

9. Typical Gen problems may be the brushes are worn down or the hold down spring assemblies are stuck/corroded/dirty and arent pushing the brushes tight down against the commutator. Check those things out. Worse may be bad fields or armature etc. Air and WD 40 etc can clean and free them, the hold downs must be free n snap and hold the brushes DOWN TIGHT and they cant be worn down too low.

SUMMARY: Check the wiring,,,,,the grounds,,,,, insure BAT on VR or Relay is hot,,,,, ,check battery (maybe load tested and Specific Gravity checked),,,,, ,,,good tight belt,,,,, ,insure ammeter is continuous (BOTH sides HOT),,,,, see if battery voltage rises above 12.6 (half that for 6 volt system) and/or light glow brighter,,,,, ,,,do the Field and cutout relay VR by pass checks,,,,, ,,insure the Gens brushes arent worn down and the hold down springs are free n clean and push the brushes down tight,,,,, ,,,,,check the connections,,,,, ,,,try the Gen Motor Test to see if its good.

You may just have a bad battery or bad ground or connection if the Gen and VR or relay are okay. Good Luck n God Bless, let us all know.

John T Nordhoff in Indiana, retired electrical engineer who usually lurks over on the Mother Deere pages instead of over here on the "dark side" lol

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Brownie450

10-02-2007 10:54:47




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to terryjd, 10-02-2007 09:43:19  
If you have an ammeter to use, unhook the BAT terminal from the regulator & using a jumper wire-- connect one end to the Bat terminal on the reg--& the other end to one terminal on the ammeter. From the other ammeter terminal, connect a jumper wire to the Neg battery terminal. Polarize generator if not already done. Start engine & note reading on ammeter. It should show charge. If it doesn't, do as Jim says & ground the field. Check for charge. I believe you have a wire or two crossed up in the magic box which houses the switches & gages.

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Andy Martin

10-02-2007 10:58:42




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to Brownie450, 10-02-2007 10:54:47  
This might not be good advice if the tractor is negative ground.



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Andy Martin

10-02-2007 10:53:55




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to terryjd, 10-02-2007 09:43:19  
I'll bet your tractor is wired wrong. Have you traced out the wiring following a wiring diagram?

The action you describe could indicate the ammeter is hooked up backwards, and the lights are wired to the battery side of the ammeter.

The ammeter should be the first thing from the battery, except for the wire to the starter. If the lights have been wired to the starter post then they will draw through the ammeter. If the ammeter is backwards, current to the battery would show discharge, so if when battery is charging and when lights are turned on, there is even more amperage, so more indication of discharge.

Does the ammeter show discharge when the lights are turned on with the tractor off? It probably shows nothing, because the current does not have to pass through the ammeter.

Discharge is current flowing from the battery.

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terryjd

10-02-2007 12:16:57




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to Andy Martin, 10-02-2007 10:53:55  
Yes I have checked the wiring diragrams to make sure its hooked up right and it seems to be. Way its wired is from VR Batt terminal a wire goes to the AmpM to the post on the discharge side. Then a wire goes off the Charge side post of the AmpM to the starter. These are the only 2 wires on the AmpM. From the VR where it is marked L terminal the wire goes to the ignition pull switch. The amp meter does show discharge when lights are turned on and tractor is not running. Will take the diragram out and check the wires again.

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P Backus

10-02-2007 10:51:12




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to terryjd, 10-02-2007 09:43:19  
Is the battery hooked up positive ground or negative? It should be positive ground ( the opposite of your car unless it was built before about 1954)

It is a 6 volt system with a generator, right?

Paul



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terryjd

10-02-2007 11:30:30




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to P Backus, 10-02-2007 10:51:12  
tractor is hooked up positive ground with a 6 volt generator system.



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Janicholson

10-02-2007 10:10:28




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to terryjd, 10-02-2007 09:43:19  
Start it up and leave the lights off.
With everything as is, use a jumper with aligator clip to ground the F terminal of the Generator. This puts full field current to the generator and makes it put out max (if a three brush gen, it might need the third brush moved close to the other brush). If it charges with the jump in place, the VR may need to be grounded better, or it is not working correctly. JimN

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terryjd

10-02-2007 11:15:52




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to Janicholson, 10-02-2007 10:10:28  
Yep grounding out the F terminal made the tractor charge. Made it charge too well amp hand jumped to over 20 which is the max then dropped back to 20 on the discharge side and staying there now even when unhooked. Think I just fried the amp meter. Oh well must be a problem somewhere in the gen, or the VR. Is only a 2 brush generator.



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Janicholson

10-02-2007 13:12:51




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to terryjd, 10-02-2007 11:15:52  
The voltage regulator was bad (even if new) the regulator may have been reboxed from someone that ruined it, then took it back. The generator worked as it should, the regulator (sticking cutout relay within)caused the discharge to continue. Unless the amp meter smoked, the system should be OK with a new regulator. JimN



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teddy52food

10-02-2007 10:09:14




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to terryjd, 10-02-2007 09:43:19  
Do you have a battery ign distributer or a magneto? If it has a mag it will keep running without a battery. Put a volt meter on the battery posts. Note the voltage. Then start it up and see if the voltage is higher. If it is , it is charging.



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terryjd

10-02-2007 11:27:16




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 Re: Charge Problem Making No Sense in reply to teddy52food, 10-02-2007 10:09:14  
No mag on the tractor it is an ing distributer. Going to have to get another volt meter to check things with. Mine just goes crazy when I get close to the battery with it. Numbers start flashing, blinking before I get close to touching anything with the probes. Almost like its picking up a magnetic field from the tractor. Tried checking the battery in the truck with it running and worked ok, showed 13.6v.

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