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Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ?

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ed8844

09-30-2007 12:41:05




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Just bought a IH 3444 super backhoe has a BD154 4 cyl diesel - Get a lot of oil blowby out of the valve cover vent - It starts and runs without glow plugs hooked up (after some cranking and a shot of starter stuff)- I imagine the engine is ready for some work as the tractor is beat up and worn - Im doing a compression check today and Ill pull the head and send it off for work this week - what do I check to tell if I can get away with doing and In-frame rebuild or if the engine has to come out for a full deal - how do I know if the crank needs work ? Thanks much, Ed Photo is posted at the gallery below tractorshed.com/gallery/tphotos/a105336.jpg

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ed8844

10-01-2007 13:01:00




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to ed8844, 09-30-2007 12:41:05  
I sure am embarrassed for not doing a compression check right off the bat - Cranked the beast up today and pulled the dip stick partly out- Lt gray smoke same as out the valve cover vent - Pulled the dip all the way out and nearly got a face full of oil lots of pressure in there- Warmed it up good and shut it down -Cylinder 1 has 280 psi, #2 has 300, #3 has 220 and #4 has no compression at all, zilch - Oil has diesel fuel in it too . I know what I'll be doing on my day off.

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Lee in Iowa

09-30-2007 20:46:25




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to ed8844, 09-30-2007 12:41:05  
Good plan I have a 560 that needs cam bearings, sure wish it had been done when it only had an in frame a few years ago. Lee



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Fromjb2

09-30-2007 18:05:32




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to ed8844, 09-30-2007 12:41:05  
Hi Ed, how many hours on hour meter or is it broke?
We had a B414D with same BD154 engine and ran it for 15,000 hours and only had a little blow by when under heavy load. We also did proper maintenance and changed the oil regularly and used Rotella T Diesel oil. At 10,000 hrs we changed the main and rod bearing inserts as oil pressure would drop a little when hot. Changing the inserts fixed the oil pressure problem.

Good luck
JimB

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ed8844

09-30-2007 18:59:01




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to Fromjb2, 09-30-2007 18:05:32  
Jim, Hour meter has 12K+ hrs -It has some serious oily blowby out the Valve cover vent- smoke comes out too - I was afraid that the engine might start running on it's own oil and runaway.



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Fromjb2

09-30-2007 21:21:03




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to ed8844, 09-30-2007 18:59:01  
Ed, old IH mechanic would check blow by removing the crankcase oil dipstick with the engine under load and see how much smoke came out the dipstick tube. If tractor has been sitting for a long time could be stuck rings. Put some GM ATF in the Diesel fuel, that will cleanup everything.
The BD154 was a very good engine except tough to start in cold climates. Like I said we traded our B414D with 15K ours only to get a larger tractor for PTO work, not because of engine problems.

JimB

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teddy52food

09-30-2007 16:25:02




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to ed8844, 09-30-2007 12:41:05  
How was the oil pressure? If it starts out high but drops a lot when the oil gets warm, it has excessive clearance & needs to be corrected.



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ed8844

09-30-2007 16:53:53




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to teddy52food, 09-30-2007 16:25:02  
Thats one of its ugly spots - Oil Pres Gage Is missing from the panel - I was assuming it was bad from the getgo - I will pick up one at Napa to know for sure.



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El Toro

09-30-2007 13:47:55




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to ed8844, 09-30-2007 12:41:05  
third party image

Here's your picture. Hal
PS: You need to measure the crankshaft for wear or have someone do it.



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ed8844

09-30-2007 14:24:59




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to El Toro, 09-30-2007 13:47:55  
Thanks Hal - I've got the loader and backhoe off so its easier to work on -doesn't look like much without them. I have a clear shot at the lower end with the oil pan pulled -lots of room to work - Can it be measured and inspected without pulling the engine or is it best to forget it and pull the motor and take the crank to a machine shop? Buddy of mine says "If you gotta ask -You already know the answer" Well I guess so.

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El Toro

09-30-2007 18:21:38




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to ed8844, 09-30-2007 14:24:59  
You may be able to get your auto machine shop to measure your rod journals, if you're not comfortable doing it. They should have engine specs on that engine too. If the rod journal are worn, you will need to pull the engine. It would be easier to work on too. Good time to replace all the seals. If that oil pan and engine is sludged up you should have the engine cooked and all oil passages cleaned and blown out for good oil circulation. Hal

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ed8844

09-30-2007 19:09:48




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to El Toro, 09-30-2007 18:21:38  
I'm going to pull The Engine and do it right - Buddy of mine knows a local shop that will check & do the crank and camshaft- they will also hot tank the block. It should be a good tractor when all is done - Thanks guys - Ill let you know how it goes. Ed



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El Toro

10-01-2007 03:49:41




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to ed8844, 09-30-2007 19:09:48  
You won't regret pulling the engine. Just be careful. Hal



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Janicholson

09-30-2007 17:06:39




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 Re: Full Engine Rebuild or IN-Frame, How do I Know ? in reply to ed8844, 09-30-2007 14:24:59  
If you are good with a micrometer, and measure consistently, and across the journal and at different angles across the journal, the rods can be mic'ed easily. Using plastigauge on the mains is also a good Idea as there is no way to get across those with the engine in the tractor, and the crank in the block. Some do not believe in plastigauge, I do when it is used correctly (follow directions). Bearings should be at .001 to .0025 to be considered runable. Others may say different. JimN

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