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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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826 - Fuel pump

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Bradford

09-24-2007 18:29:25




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Trying to find the extra starting fuel spot on the kill cable.

At a little faster than idle speed I move the fuel cutoff arm back slowly it never increases rpm's just dies. Moving real slow just dies.

It needs a touch of ether, but just a whiff less than 1/2 second to start. Am I missing something? fuel filters are so old the paint is faded, but it runs great.




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Jim Allen

09-25-2007 06:08:09




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 Re: 826 - Fuel pump in reply to Bradford, 09-24-2007 18:29:25  
Wow! I learned somethig new here! I "thought" I had actually read the manual. Thanks K.B. I don't have much trouble starting my D358... mostly becaue it doesn't get used when it's cold, but it's nice to know.

BTW, even with over 8200 hours, mine seems to run better and better themore I use it. I can almost go a full season now without adding oil (about 75 hours) and my fuel consumption is like clockwork. The highest so far has been 4.5 GPH pulling my 8-shank chisel in rather hard clay ground about 11 inches deep. It seems to like the ULSD too. A lot less smoke.

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K.B.-826

09-24-2007 20:43:24




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 Re: 826 - Fuel pump in reply to Bradford, 09-24-2007 18:29:25  
Look at the lower arm on the pump. When it is in the full forward position and contacting the stop screw, it is in the "run" position. You'll notice that as the arm is moved to the rear, it contacts a little spring loaded plunger. When it just contacts that plunger, the arm is in the "starting fuel" position. As the arm is moved all the way to the rear and compresses the plunger into it's barrel, it is in the "shut-off" position. Anything in between the "run" and "start" position will decrease the amount of fuel being delivered and will cause the engine to run slower and possibly stall. Start the engine and run at idle. Move the arm quickly by hand to the "start" position. The engine should speed up to about 1900 RPM. This will confirm that it's adjusted and working. It takes a little practice to feel the arm hit the plunger through the cable. Here's the proper procedure for starting- move the throttle lever to the 1/4 throttle position, pull the cable to the start position, crank the engine, and hold the cable in the start position until it is firing steadily enough to stay running, then throw the cable forward. It is also interesting to note that for some reason, these engines get harder to start after a failed attempt.

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Bradford

09-25-2007 17:06:44




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 Re: 826 - Fuel pump in reply to K.B.-826, 09-24-2007 20:43:24  
Aha.

I don't have the rear plunger though!!

Will try this technique and get a plunger.

Thanks a million.

Great tractor. Getting her in shape slowly but surely.

Curtis



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Allan In NE

09-24-2007 18:43:10




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 Re: 826 - Fuel pump in reply to Bradford, 09-24-2007 18:29:25  
That's the way those Germans are unless they have been updated to the higher compression pistons.

Hard startin' SOBs. :>)

Allan



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Bradford

09-24-2007 19:27:30




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 Re: 826 - Fuel pump in reply to Allan In NE, 09-24-2007 18:43:10  
I am gonna live with the touch of ether for now.

Thanks,
Curtis



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Allan In NE

09-25-2007 05:28:34




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 Re: 826 - Fuel pump in reply to Bradford, 09-24-2007 19:27:30  
Oh heck yeah,

They are just killer engines and last forever, all the while merely "sipping" the fuel. :>)

Allan



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