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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall B - carb

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Dave H (MI)

09-10-2007 08:06:30




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It has been a week since I reinstalled the carb and fired the tractor up. It has been run daily although I cannot say it has had much load on it. There isn't much around here in the way of implements for a Farmall B to load it with. My goal when I started was to see if I could get this little tractor to run as well as the larger one (Farmall M). I think we are very close. Here is where it is at:

Tractor started better before I rebuilt the carb. Jumped right to life and sounded strong originally. Now it does start but sometimes takes two tries. It can tend to sound a little chokey when first started but this clears up in a minute or so. Sometimes it was stalling after running around 30 seconds or so BUT the sediment bowl was leaking then and it might have had air in the fuel line. It always restarted.

As far as operation? Cannot complain as to how it runs. We took it on a four mile drive up and down hills without incident. I would be curious to see it pull a fully loaded hay wagon just to see how it ramps up under load but that is still a week or two out.

As far as idle? The low idle is still kind of rough. I have not tried to adjust it in a week but back then the idle jet needle did not have any effect on idle speed...so I guess I did not get that as clean as I should have? Doesn't seem possible.

Reminder, this is a Zenith carb with no main jet adjustment. The carb is still set at the manufacturer's recommended starting adjustments of one full turn out on the idle screw and I believe it was 1.5 turns out on the throttle arm screw. This latter adjustment leaves the throttle plate open a tiny crecent when throttled down.

There are no more leaks anywhere in the fuel line BUT I noticed a drip from the bottom of the carb yesterday. The tractor is nose down on a hill at the moment and it's possible there's an issue with this angle and the float...I can check this easy enough.

There it is in a nutshell. I am out custom fitting some parts for the buddy seat today. Managed to clean and tap out all the holes yesterday and seat some new hardware without breaking off the tool in the casting or my usual encore performance of breaking off the bolt in the casting followed by my regular curtain call of breaking off the "easy out" in the casting. There may be hope for me!

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pete7

09-10-2007 16:01:28




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-10-2007 08:06:30  
Hi Dave....I'm wondering if the idle speed is set to high. With a high idle speed, the idle adjustment will not show much effect because the main jet has already kicked in. If you are seeing black smoke at idle that shows a rich fuel mixture. (ie to much gas or not enough air)
Pete



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Janicholson

09-10-2007 14:04:07




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-10-2007 08:06:30  
Unburned gasoline is white and kinda wafts out of the pipe from lack of firing. If this is happening, there may be ignition issues that are causing poor starting. Check point gap, spark intensity, and timing. Also look at the cap for carbon tracks and moisture. JimN



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Dave H (MI)

09-10-2007 14:26:04




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Janicholson, 09-10-2007 14:04:07  
Hey Jim, I'm confused. Why would I suspect point gap, spark, or timing when I just got done sorting all that out and it started fine? Then I tear the carb down and when I put it back it doesn't start right. Seems like more or less something I did to the carb to me. Why would you think different?



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Janicholson

09-11-2007 09:13:50




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-10-2007 14:26:04  
Because white drifting smoke and stumbling starts are spark related quite often. The plugs might need to be looked at, or the other things I indicated. Just trying to get under the problem. JimN



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RustyFarmall

09-10-2007 08:45:35




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-10-2007 08:06:30  
Dave, there is an adjustable load jet screw available for that Zenith carb. I really doubt if you need it, but it would let you fine tune that carb.



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Dave H (MI)

09-10-2007 10:39:37




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to RustyFarmall, 09-10-2007 08:45:35  
Yup, I saw that in the service manual when I was "fixing" my carb. I don't know if I need it either but guess it can wait while I find out if I ever get the start and idle right. As soon as the rain lets up I am taking this little tractor down to the hayfield with me. Don't know if the rake will load it much but a wagon with a hundred plus late cutting bales ought to make it groan. Making me groan thinking about loading them!

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Janicholson

09-10-2007 08:41:24




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-10-2007 08:06:30  
Air in a gravety fuel system can only happen when the tank is empty! Try the adjustment now to see if it will richen up. A 2% blockage in a passage can affect 20% of flow! Things are good. Get used to:
Shutting off the fuel valve every time it is stopped for a few minutes.
Learning the choke operation over ambient temp and engine heat variations. It will start well. JimN



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Dave H (MI)

09-10-2007 10:31:43




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Janicholson, 09-10-2007 08:41:24  
Hi Jim! Tried the idle adjustment again. It has no effect. I am pretty good on choke operation. The MTA likes a little choke in cool weather and a little more in the winter, none at all this time of year. The B started better than the MTA when we started with the carb. A more detailed description of current operation (as of today) follows:

On start. Tractor wants NO choke. Turn on the switch, crank the engine with little or no effect (used to start almost instantly). After many cranks some white smoke appears in the exhaust, it pops a couple of time, then it starts and runs as if it were choked (which it is not). It gradually gains power with lots of white smoke and then the smoke disappears and the engine smooths out.

On idle. After warming for a bit at about half throttle, I tried to idle it down and it does so pretty nicely. With the throttle all the way back there is a low idle with some black smoke. The idle gradually starts getting rough and the smoke gradually increases. Not belching out like a locomotive but it is there. The white smoke is worse on start.

Any of that make any sense? I don't know how to read smoke yet except for the bluish white burning oil smoke....that ain't it.

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Owen Aaland

09-10-2007 15:56:03




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-10-2007 10:31:43  
Float level will affect when and how much you have to choke the engine to get it to start. It will also change how the idle and main jet operate.

I would lower the float level. Having to choke the engine thas has not just been turned off is not unusual, even in the summer time. My 2444, same series engine as yours, starts much better with a little choke even if I just shut it off.



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teddy52food

09-10-2007 10:42:12




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-10-2007 10:31:43  
White smoke is usually water. Sounds like it is slightly flooded if you have to crank for a while with the choke open to get it to fire. The black smoke is too much fuel. Take it apart and make sure the seat is in tight with a new (good) gasket. Check the float level you may have to lower it a bit.



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El Toro

09-10-2007 08:11:52




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-10-2007 08:06:30  
If you have a plow or disk harrow that should put enough load on it. Hal



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Dave H (MI)

09-10-2007 10:35:07




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 Re: Farmall B - carb in reply to El Toro, 09-10-2007 08:11:52  
Hi Hal! The only trailing equipment that I have here is a 3-16 JD plow.....I think in Farmall B land they call that an anchor. I am pretty sure the tractor is OK on load. It sure has hauled my big backside up enough hills this past week. This start and idle business has me concerned though. Would be nice to work on a carb and get it to at least work the SAME when I was done if I can't get it to work better!

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