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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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am trying to get a 42 model H to run

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James Kleinheid

08-28-2007 21:45:06




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i have been trying to get a 42 h to run and it has me cursing everytime i try. It has the mag distribriter and has fire and good copression.i put a kit in the carb but everytime i crank it over it starts but it won't stay running,it acts like its starving for gas.I can keep it running with ether. I just don't know what do do next




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Lloyd1 in CT

08-29-2007 11:30:42




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
I know others have pointed to it but I will add that a small piece of mechanics wire or the like is best to make sure all particles are out of the carb ports. I have cleaned with compressed air and still found that "crap" can hide but not from a thin wire. Just a thought-



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RustyFarmall

08-29-2007 15:21:39




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to Lloyd1 in CT, 08-29-2007 11:30:42  
Mechanics wire is OK for some of those passages, but it is WAY too large for the most critical passages. You will make those passages bigger than they should be by forcing that wire into them, and then you will have major idling mal-functions. If you must use a wire, use the smallest wire in a torch tip cleaning set.



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MV Tommy

08-29-2007 09:28:41




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
I also have a 42 H, but had similar problem with my 48 MV. My problem was a LOT of rust, dust, crud in the gas tank. If this is your problem, then you may want to do what I did: Drain tank; Remove tank; dry it; flush with water hose; shine flashlight in and poke with a wooden stick to scrape off all loose crud; put some nuts and bolts in it and tumble it around to loosen crud; keep flushing till it comes out clean; get etching acid and follow directions; get a product called Red-Kote and coat the inside of the tank to prevent the problem from happening again. Add a new sediment bowl with good filter. I did all this and now it runs and stays running!

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Dave H (MI)

08-29-2007 08:53:36




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
I was just working on a sediment bowl yesterday because the flow was terrible when I drained the gas tank. Cleaned the screen real good thinking that was the problem when I noticed what looked like insect eyes in the orifice just above the screen. Poked a housefly out of there followed by about a teaspoon full of his friends plus chaff and sediment. Can't believe it ran at all and the gas tank is shiny and clean inside.

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RustyFarmall

08-29-2007 08:43:00




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
Every one who has replied so far is leading you in the correct direction, so I will only add that simply "putting a kit in the carb" usually accomplishes very little. Take that carb apart again and examine it very thoroughly, Make double sure that ALL passages are open and totally free of crud. Examine that float and when you reinstall it, make sure to set both the float height and the float drop to exact specifications + or - 1/32nd of an inch. Also, before you reinstall that needle valve and seat, liberally spray both pieces with carb cleaner, and allow to dry. It seems that NEW needles and seats have a residue on them which I think is left from the manufacturing process, and that residue becomes quite sticky when exposed to gasoline. This will allow the needle to stick firmly in the seat, and then you will have very little or even NO gas flow.

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Michael Soldan

08-29-2007 05:05:14




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
Your description indicates fuel shortage. As suggested remove line at carb or the plug on the carb. Here is where most people get decieved..they see gasoline and say, yep we got fuel!...well you need a flow that is steady and continuous and as was suggested let it flow for several minutes catching it in a container..the flow should be like you could pee when you were 16!...if you don't have a contiuous flow the problem is between the tank and the carb. The screens in the sediment bowl often plug up and that is a good starting point in cleaning the fuel system

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El Toro

08-29-2007 03:58:31




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor and see if there's good suction and your hand should get wet with gas. The inlet screen where
where your gas line is connected could be be plugged with rust or dirt or both. Shine a good flashlight down in the gas tank and see if there's any crud floating around. If there's an inline filter it could be the problem if its not for a gravity flow system. Most are for when using a fuel pump. Hal

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RyaninKS

08-29-2007 01:17:59




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
my M did the same thing and it turned out the fuel line was clogged with "junk" that had built up over the 60 years of work...



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jonnny2006

08-28-2007 23:14:29




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
Has to be a fuel..... if it was spark it would die even when you spray starting fluid. do a flo test and check the carb screen and the sediment bowl screen. or it might be in the carb itself like the float. Does it run if you choke it?



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old

08-28-2007 21:57:01




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
Pull the drain plug out of the bottom of the carg, turn on the gas and check for a good steady flow of gas for at least 5 minutes. Catch the gas in something so you can look at it to see if it has any junk in it. If you have a don't have good steady flow there take the line off the carb and check there. Work you way back to find where you loose flow.

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Mike CA

08-28-2007 21:55:24




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 Re: am trying to get a 42 model H to run in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-28-2007 21:45:06  
I'll bet dollars to donuts it has something to do with the float in the carb. I don't know anything about them yet, but when people describe what you have, it seems to be the answer.

I look forward to hearing the experts chime in on this one!



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A. Bohemian

08-29-2007 07:15:20




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 Plain Glazed or Cream Filled? in reply to Mike CA, 08-28-2007 21:55:24  
Sorry, Mike. Couldn't resist.

Do the fuel flow test, as others have described. Remember, a STEADY stream roughly the size of the plug, for several minutes.

After encountering trouble, did you clean out the sediment bowl and examine the contents?

If you did, why didn't you tell us what you saw? If you didn't, why not do it now and let us know?

As Dell says, we all flunked mind-reading.



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James Kleinheider

08-29-2007 11:48:26




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 Re: Plain Glazed or Cream Filled? in reply to A. Bohemian, 08-29-2007 07:15:20  
Mike i liked your reply and have to say my dell died a couple weeks ago from me droping it LOL
well anyway the sediment bowl is clean but i haven't done the flow test_didn't even think of it so i will do that this weekend but i did pull the carb off after the fact just to see how much fuel was in the bowl_ i did this with 2 people as to not dump the fuel and the bowl was only half full so i am going to check the float ajustment and by the way i have a gateway now LOL

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A. Bohemian

08-29-2007 12:09:31




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 A Better Way in reply to James Kleinheider, 08-29-2007 11:48:26  
Why take the carb apart BEFORE checking the fuel flow? That"s like doing surgery for obesity BEFORE trying diet and exercise.

Isn"t it much easier to pull the drain plug than remove, disassemble, and then re-assemble a complicated thing like a carb?

The bowl was probably half-full because some of the gas had evaporated out. This is one major reason why gravity-feed systems have a provision for shutting off the gas. Otherwise the gas slowly evaporates out through the carb...

A much better way to check carburetor operation than taking it apart is to substitute a carb from another tractor that runs well. The tractor doesn"t have to run perfectly with the substitute carb, it just has to lose the symptom in question (in this case, not starting). So, don"t tweak the carb, leave it set up for the OTHER motor!!!

Not always practical, but when practical leaves NO DOUBT as to whether or not the carb is causing the problem in question.

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