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Radiator removal

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Mike CA

08-25-2007 21:41:53




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I have a hole in the left side of my radiator where threads should be for the grill. I'm going to pull it and take it to a member of my club who is going to help me weld it. (I think I'll ask him to teach me how to weld, since I haven't a clue)

Anyway, the tractor has been drained of water for some time, so I just need to pull the radiator. I figured I'd jump in and figure it out. But any tips or things to be careful of before I begin?

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Nebraska Kirk

08-26-2007 12:02:29




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 Re: Radiator removal in reply to Mike CA, 08-25-2007 21:41:53  
There are two studs on the bottom of the radiator that go through the bolster and have a spring and a nut on the bottom, you have to sit or lay under the tractor to get to them. They are a pain to get to and remove :-) just what you wanted to hear, right! :-)

Also, you have to remove the lower half of the steering shaft, it goes through the radiator. There is a rod that goes from the radiator toward the rear of the tractor, just above the valve cover, you should not have to remove it, just disconnect the end that is fastened to the radiator. Also, unbolt the fan shroud, it is bolted to the radiator with four small bolts. Just pull the shroud back and let it hang on the water pump, and you will be able to lift the radiator straight up and out.

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brainerd dave

08-26-2007 14:49:19




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 Re: Radiator removal in reply to Nebraska Kirk, 08-26-2007 12:02:29  
Did IH at least have access holes in the frame by '44? On my '40, those nuts were blind and it was the most frustrating job on the whole restoration. Also, don't forget to remove the cotter pins on those bolts.



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Patrick Martin

08-25-2007 22:11:20




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 Re: Radiator removal in reply to Mike CA, 08-25-2007 21:41:53  
Well you might want to have it checked for leaks at this time too. It sucks to discover leaks when you crank it up for the first time and it gets to operating temp.
I usually do a precheck using an old cut up inner tube. I'll cut the section out that has the valve stem on and using a hose clamp I clamp it around the inlet port with the stem in the center. I take another piece of the tube and clamp it over the bottom port and seal that side off.
Leave it empty and slap the cap on and pressure up on the stem, you should be able to go up to 30 lbs with this. Use soapy water and check for leaks. This is a simple test using a scrap innertube and will find the slightest of leaks and keep you from doing twice the work.

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Janicholson

08-26-2007 09:06:36




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 Re: Radiator removal in reply to Patrick Martin, 08-25-2007 22:11:20  
I must respectfully disagree. I think I would stay in the area of 10 PSI or less the flat structures of tanks were thick enough (on the pressure cap radiators for 7PSI caps, but 30 is begging for flexing the metal and making grief.. Risky at best. JimN



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Patrick Martin

08-26-2007 23:17:45




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 Re: Radiator removal in reply to Janicholson, 08-26-2007 09:06:36  
You're most likely right. My mind was thinking about a modern automotive radiator when I wrote that. Sorry bout that!third party image



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