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My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet*

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Mike CA

08-23-2007 20:44:27




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Today I went to a tractor junkyard in my local area. I have been there to look around, but today I knew what I needed, so I wanted to see if they could accomodate me. In the past just asking a quick question I found out that their prices were what I considered pretty high. But today I gave the parts guy my full story, and he seemed very interested in helping me out with good prices. So, below is a list of parts I found that I need, and the costs. I have some questions below that, so please read on...

- Fenders (2) + attaching hardware - $45 each. (they look orginal, one is on a '39H, and the other is on a 300, but they look the same. A camera will determine if they are original and the same... I'll post pics soon)

- Narrow front end with casts, no rims: Damage to the right seal area - $175. I think I'm going to pass on this because I think it's incredibly expensive, and it's damaged.

- Light bar w/ 2 lights (no bulbs or lens) + attaching hardware - $45

- Oil pan in decent shape $45

- Throttle linkage arm + hardware - $15

- Hydraulic control arm and link rod $40

- Seat tube assembly (with spring and base) $20

- Amp control box $20

- Lower radiator pipe - $5

- Carb breather tube - $10

- H4 mag core (to give to Magman) $50

FREE WITH OTHER PURCHASE:

- Hydraulic line plugs

- Block water drain plug

- Rusted battery box support

- Wing nut carb adjuster

Questions:
- Are the lights repairable? One has a small dent in it. Is that repairable? Would it be smarter (cheaper) to buy these original lights and rebuild/restore them, or buy aftermarkets OEM lights?

- Can the throttle linkage arm be straigtened easily? How do you do that? I was going to buy a new one because mine is bent. But it's been welded, and the new one is pretty cheap.

- On the battery box support, it has scaled rust. Can that be restored to usable condition? I haven't seen them in a catalog, can they be purchased new?

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Andy Motteberg

08-26-2007 20:20:36




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 Re: My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet* in reply to Mike CA, 08-23-2007 20:44:27  
The light bar, oil pan, & throttle linkage sound highly priced to me. If that seat is in good shape, that's a good price, its worth much more if its original from a 1939 H. I have one part of the battery box mount for a H with the box under the tank if you need.



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Andy in Ohio

08-24-2007 04:42:24




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 Re: My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet* in reply to Mike CA, 08-23-2007 20:44:27  
Mike, I would snag the the fenders for sure. The amp box if it has a good guage and switch. Lower radiator pipe if its not pitted to bad. You can use JB weld on the pin holes. You can get good orig. lights on ebay pretty reasonable, sometimes with a bar as you will have that much and more in the parts that are missing. You can repair the pan as the other guys have stated. JB weld has saved me alot af money in the past and it works great on small holes. Stay away from the rods and fix your own. Good luck, Andy

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Patrick Martin

08-23-2007 22:17:36




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 Re: My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet* in reply to Mike CA, 08-23-2007 20:44:27  
Mike, what's wrong with your seat tube and oil pan? Are these the ones you posted about a while back? (dented pan and wallowed seat pivot holes)

Have you looked into repairing these two items? You can beat the dents out of the oil pan with a block and then using the ball end of a ball peen hammer. No ones gonna know or be able to tell after you smear a little Bondo over the irregularities.

You could drill and install oversize pins in the seat or build them up with weld and weld up the crack at the bottom.

I'd get the used lights if I were you and just knock the dent out as much as possible if it is big, if not then just Bondo over it. Dents mean stretching and sometimes you can do worse if you try to pop some dents out so look at that dent carefully.

The throttle arm might be better bought new. It depends on how much the part has been stretched. It's just like bending a piece of wire back and forth till it breaks; each time it gets a little weaker. My guess is that it is to this point already and that's why it was welded. Chunk that booger and get a fresh one, it will be allot safer I would figure in the event it broke during operation.

OEM might have the suport but I would just blast it and coat it with POR-15 then smooth over with filler. This part could be subject to acid leakage again and filler as well as the rustproof will not be eaten away like the original steel part.

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Bob Kerr

08-23-2007 21:22:39




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 Re: My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet* in reply to Mike CA, 08-23-2007 20:44:27  
Hi Mike, Some of the parts you are looking at might be fixed easy instead of buying new or used. A couple 4x4 or 6x6 block of wood can be used to straighten oil pans and throttle rods without leaving hammer marks. The throttle rod I have been told is a hollow tube with the ends welded on so it can get smashed or collapsed if not careful. Another thing on the throttle rod is it may have been bent on porpose to keep from rubbing the hood because of worn out attaching parts or the sheet metal parts not lined up right because of missing shims or washers. That would be something to look at. If you want send me an email with your phone number and I can tell you how to straighten those parts without wrecking them and it is easy and cheap to do and few tools required!. It would take me too much time to type it all out. The best advise on a restoration I can give you is don"t get in a hurry! I have seen more money wasted and and credit ruined from people hurrying a project in the 20 plus years I worked on restoration cars and selling parts. When I did some of the cars and tractors I had very little money also, but I still ended up with something nice. I will be glad to help out!

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Mike CA

08-23-2007 21:17:49




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 Re: My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet* in reply to Mike CA, 08-23-2007 20:44:27  

Farmer Bob said: Mike, Some of the prices look rather high to me...


Which prices look high?



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Farmer Bob

08-23-2007 21:06:21




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 Re: My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet* in reply to Mike CA, 08-23-2007 20:44:27  
Mike, Some of the prices look rather high to me. I"d also stay away from that lower front bolster. Look around for someone that has removed one to mount a wide front end. Sometimes, you can pic one up for $20 or so and maybe a few bucks more for rims included. With the cast hubs, you"ll need "Loopless" rims but you will need the clamps to hold the rims onto the hubs. You have to judge you own abilities and time available no matter what you do with the H. You will learn from doing it yourself...you"ll learn very little having someone else do it for you. Maybe ask around in the EDGTA group you joined for a contact like a retired mechanic from a local ag dealership who could tutor you. Also bone up on the manuals for your H. Just like prepping for a rating exam...

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Mike CA

08-23-2007 21:05:12




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 Re: My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet* in reply to Mike CA, 08-23-2007 20:44:27  
Oh, I forgot to ask...

Is the light bar from an M and a H the same thing? I think the bar on an M is in better condition.



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Farmer Bob

08-23-2007 21:07:17




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 Re: My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet* in reply to Mike CA, 08-23-2007 21:05:12  
They're the same.



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flashback

08-24-2007 06:57:59




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 Re: My trip to the tractor junkyard *no pics yet* in reply to Farmer Bob, 08-23-2007 21:07:17  
Some of the stuff is pretty good. I dont think the lights and light bar are too good of a deal because the lenses are missing. When buying from internet and or other places not in your area you must consider freight costs. Heavy items can be shipped by freight companies for not too much. Light bars can be bought on ebay for a lot less Stay away from a guy IH Eagle though. His shipping prices are three times more than it should be. Let other help. I check lights twice a day at farmall tractor parts lights twice daily because I need some also. You will find several bars there usually fairly reasonable (Less than $20. Lights also.

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