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More combine engine questions

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chadd

08-16-2007 09:07:53




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Well, I replaced the cap, points, and rotor, and it runs better. However, it still has a definite miss. It occurs at the exact same time each time it occurs, and is not random. It appears to occur every cycle. It results in a sound like the engine is galloping. It is also accompanied by a small puff of smoke. I tried Janicholson's advice and switched 1 and 4 plug wires. The engine ran without stalling, but it was backfiring through the carb and had no power. When I switched 2 and 3 it would only fire three or four revolutions and then stall. With 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 reversed, it would not start. I am guessing the problem must be with cylinders 1 and 4 because when the two cylinders' sparks were reversed, it had less effect on the running of the engine than when 2 and 3 were reversed. Maybe a shorted plug? It's odd though, because it looks as though they are all firing. None appear wet.

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John M

08-16-2007 14:50:34




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 Re: More combine engine questions in reply to chadd, 08-16-2007 09:07:53  
I think he meant to use the wire on a different cylinder. What you did was cross the plug wires.



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chadd

08-16-2007 11:57:14




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 Re: More combine engine questions in reply to chadd, 08-16-2007 09:07:53  
Well, I found out at least part of what is wrong with it. I took off the valve cover and found two bent pushrods on cylinder 4. The exhaust pushrod was sitting loose in the head and was no longer under the rocker arm. It has a slight bend to it that is just barely detectable by rolling it on a flat piece of steel. The intake pushrod is bent into an S shape and was stuck in the rocker arm. The intake valve moves freely but the exhaust valve moves very hard and rough. I do not know what could have caused it. The engine oil has no water in it and the intake and exhaust ports looked fine when I changed the manifold gaskets. The valve stems also looked straight and relatively clean with no hint of rust. Has anyone ever gotten stuck valves loose without pulling the head?

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Janicholson

08-16-2007 20:15:41




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 Re: More combine engine questions in reply to chadd, 08-16-2007 11:57:14  
Take a plastic faced hammer, and some triflow spray and squirt the stem inside the spring. (you acn also stuff cotton clothsline rope in the #4 cylinder, (leave a tag sticking out) and turn the engine by hand until the piston starts up and compresses the rope just a bit) then take off the keeper and spray from there. Once it is lubed up, tap on the top of the valve for 10 minutes being sure it goes back up after going down. use more spray, and then engine oil. Many have straightened out pushrods with a endgrain block of wood, and a wooden mallet. it should roll on a piece of glass with no more than .002" gap under it anywhere. JimN

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El Toro

08-16-2007 14:20:41




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 Re: More combine engine questions in reply to chadd, 08-16-2007 11:57:14  
I thought it was something in those valves causing that. I think you should pull the head and have a valve job done on the head. There may be carbon on them and in the guides. Make sure there a good flow of oil to the rocker arms. Hal



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El Toro

08-16-2007 10:47:54




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 Re: More combine engine questions in reply to chadd, 08-16-2007 09:07:53  
You may have some weak valve springs. Hal



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Bob

08-16-2007 09:14:28




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 Re: More combine engine questions in reply to chadd, 08-16-2007 09:07:53  
Have you done a compression test?



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chadd

08-16-2007 12:02:58




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 Re: More combine engine questions in reply to Bob, 08-16-2007 09:14:28  
Yes, I got the following values:
Cyl 1:149 psig
Cyl 2:154 psig
Cyl 3:149 psig
Cyl 4:155 psig

According to the I&T service manual I saw at the store, the compression pressure is listed as 180 psig, but they don't say if that value is maximum (immediately after rebuild), minimum (what is required to run correctly) or average(what an engine that is fully broken in has). 180 psig seems awfully high for a tractor engine.

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