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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall B - rough idle

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Dave H (MI)

08-14-2007 12:54:54




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Day two and she still purrs along at anything above an idle. Got that hiccup back here and there but it lessens when it warms up. I cleaned the screens and they did have a little crud in the sediment bowl screen. Managed to get one of the fuel line connections leaking....a personal curse that follows me from tractor to tractor.
Not many people can crossthread a brass nut as easily as I can. I also played with the idle screw a little when the screens failed to solve the problem. The idle screw turned either way did not seem to have much effect on the idle.

So here is where I am standing. Good strong running tractor above idle. The idle is fairly rough and can even stall out the tractor. The throttle lever only seems to affect operation when it is forward of 90 degrees. Straight up and down is idle. Pull it back further and nothing happens. Push it forward and it throttles up. I have no smoke or hesitation.
It has a Zenith carb. I have read both manuals regarding the idle and governor but don't really have the smarts to identify what might need work.

I would like to fix the idle and, if possible, get a throttle that operates the engine speed thru it's entire range. Need help! Thanks guys!

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CityBoy-McCoy

08-14-2007 14:44:30




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 Re: Farmall B - rough idle in reply to Dave H (MI), 08-14-2007 12:54:54  
Dave: I feel what Jim (Janicholson) told you about the idle circuit and the govonor adjustment hits the nail on the head. The only thing I am capable of adding is a response to what you said about the hiccup at idle lessening in intensity as the engine warms up: That is a clue that it is running too lean at idle. And, that further validates what Jim said about the idle circuit not working/partially blocked/blocked/etc. That Jim is good at this; one of the best in my book. I have learned a lot from him. mike durhan

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Dave H (MI)

08-14-2007 19:04:07




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 Re: Farmall B - rough idle in reply to CityBoy-McCoy, 08-14-2007 14:44:30  
Thanks Mike, I agree. Jim has always given me good advice on topics ranging from tractor repair to buying a farm. A "go to" guy!



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Janicholson

08-14-2007 18:27:34




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 Re: Farmall B - rough idle in reply to CityBoy-McCoy, 08-14-2007 14:44:30  
Thanks Mike, Most real education is free, We just need to keepmour container open. JimN



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Janicholson

08-14-2007 13:13:33




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 Re: Farmall B - rough idle in reply to Dave H (MI), 08-14-2007 12:54:54  
If the idle mixture screw has no effect, the passages are plugged in that circuit. A carb spray with a red tube stuch in the hole might do it before tearing it down.
The throttle is adjusted as follows (some idle end slop is very normal, and not wrong at all. On the governor, there is a link going to the throttle lever at the steering quadrant. Disconnect that from the governor arm it was attached to.
Put the throttle control lever as far toward fast as it will go in the notches. At the governor move the governor lever as far as it will go (in that same wide open direction).
Now adjust the length of the rod so that it is just a tiny bit off of perfect alignment so that there will be a little tension on the rod when it is all the way at full throttle. this assures full movement of the governor when the lever at the operator end is moved to wide open.
The idle position (again will have some no effect motion, ignore it.
This procedure in not adjusting the linkage to the carb, only the throttle lever to gov.
The gov to carb is similar in that the governor lever (on the left side of engine) is pulled against a spring to the rear (I think), and the carb is held wideopen (engine off), and the linkage is set to place the rod at just that length.
These will not cause overspeeding, they just make sure the linkages operat the full range of possible motion. Good luck, JimN

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ScottyHOMEy

08-14-2007 16:10:33




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 Question, Jim in reply to Janicholson, 08-14-2007 13:13:33  
I've just got back from three days on the road and was checking in on Dave's progress.

I'm plenty familiar with the adjustment on the left side of the tractor of the final link from the governor to the carb. But I'm wondering how you make the adjustment you describe on the right side, from the control lever forward to the governor.

My BN has about the same range as Dave's B and I'm living with it. Similar on my SuperC but it functions over something more like 3/4 of it's range, but then the control lever is a little different design and geometry.

These are both modern Zeniths(replacing an old Carter and and old Zenith, both of which ere encrusted beyond salvation) and I just figured (without thinking to do any measuring at the time, of course!) that the throttle lever on the newer carbs was longer, and ate up more of the throw of the governor rod.

To just plain have them right would be nice, but they are livable and workable as is, though it would sometimes be nice to have a little finer adjustment.

But the rods on both just have two springs at the governor end, a shorter, stouter one ahead of the block, and a longer, lighter one behind, the tension for both supplied by cotter pins over washers. What/how are you adjusting?

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Dave H (MI)

08-14-2007 19:13:56




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 Re: Question, Jim in reply to ScottyHOMEy, 08-14-2007 16:10:33  
Hey there, welcome back! Jim was kinda scarce over the weekend too but the substitute teachers were great guys and I worked thru a knotty distributor issue with their help. I combined your advice with a couple others....just can't see squinting at points to see when they open when I can just let the spark tell me (thanks, good tip!)....and just like that I had a running tractor again. Not clear if this linkage adjustment is going to improve my throttle arm movement any but I am going to give it a look tomorrow. Due to the amount of crud in the sediment bowl I am considering a carb rebuild on this tractor or at least a good cleaning. Confidence is high that I can get it back together and adjusted since this tractor actually has brakes and a load can be put to it. Have to think on it a bit cause I would really like to move on to the 2N but I also really want to leave this B knowing that I did a complete job and she can go to the field next month.

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Janicholson

08-14-2007 16:47:56




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 Re: Question, Jim in reply to ScottyHOMEy, 08-14-2007 16:10:33  
The amount of washers and their location at the springs can place the rod end as described in my post, I tried to make it as generic as possible to serve a wider audience. JimN



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ScottyHOMEy

08-14-2007 17:09:02




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 Re: Question, Jim in reply to Janicholson, 08-14-2007 16:47:56  
Aha! That'd do it.

Got a few things to do first, but I'll give that a try here one day.

Thanks!



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