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Bad noise in b.n.engine help??????????

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COPPER KAT

07-10-2007 21:43:55




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I had a b.n. farmall engine rebuild in a machine shop. new piston-sleeve set,turned crank .0010, new brgs. new vavles & seats,completly done. Put it backin tractor. Turned it over with plugs out, to get oil press.up, then stated it up , it ran 2-3 mins., and siezed up. it then turned over, ran again, and siezed up,two more times.We found sliver particals in the oil. I pulled it outand took it back, and the guy said he could not find anything wrong with it, went he took it apart. I belive that something had to be done wrong.he is washing everything out, and putting it back together. Any thoughts on this anyone? thanks.....

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Brownie450

07-11-2007 06:21:56




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 Re: Bad noise in b.n.engine help?????????? in reply to COPPER KAT, 07-10-2007 21:43:55  
Have you checked for oiling in the valve/rocker arm area with the valve cover off? My brother overhauled his tractor,& the oil plugs in the ends of the rocker arm shaft had moved inwards & of course the oil would loose pressure. This was a 4010 jd, but it would pay to check into oil delivery & pressure right away. I believe an oil pressure plug or even such a thing as maybe the front cam bearing was left out at the shop.

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Janicholson

07-11-2007 05:58:04




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 Re: Bad noise in b.n.engine help?????????? in reply to COPPER KAT, 07-10-2007 21:43:55  
Kat,
A siezure at 2 to 3 minutes is quite often Piston to Cylinder wall clearance. A sleeve to piston clearance (from a kit) should be matched from the manufacturer. If the parts were purchased seperately, they would need to be straight honed to fit.
Some metalic material in the pan may be disturbing, but not a deal breaker.
In my pro opinion look to clearances at the piston to cyl. JimN

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El Toro

07-11-2007 04:30:33




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 Re: Bad noise in b.n.engine help?????????? in reply to COPPER KAT, 07-10-2007 21:43:55  
You have posted the crankshaft was ground .0010"
don't you mean .010"? I would plasti-gage all the bearings and double check those bearing caps.
Take a look at the new inserts to see if they're
.010" inserts. It should be on the inserts. You should have from .001" to .0015" clearance on your new bearings. Be sure to use a torque wrench
using the plasti-gage. The mains are torqued to 75 ft-lbs and the rods to 40 t0 45 ft-lbs with cotter pins and 43 to 49 with lock nuts. The torque is very important on the mains and rods.
Be sure to use engine oil on all the bearings after using the plasti-gage. The numbers on your rod caps and rods and the main bearing caps should face toward the camshaft. Hal

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georgeky

07-10-2007 22:49:13




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 Re: Bad noise in b.n.engine help?????????? in reply to COPPER KAT, 07-10-2007 21:43:55  
Did you have all the rod caps on right. I put one on backwards once in a 140 and it done the same thing. I put in a new bearing, and put the cap on right and it is still running. That was in 1987.



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Owen Aaland

07-10-2007 22:22:33




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 Re: Bad noise in b.n.engine help?????????? in reply to COPPER KAT, 07-10-2007 21:43:55  
Something has too little clearance. As it warms up and expands to siezes up. Places to look are crankshaft clearances on all bearings. Piston to sleeve clearance. Piston ring end gap. Oil pump gear end clearance.

Since you said you found some silver flakes my guess would be the oil pump gear clearance. If the bottom plate was resurfaced (or even if it wasn't) it is quite possible that you will need more than one gasket there to get the proper clearance. Since it is aluminum it can quickly heat up and expand and also cool down quite fast to allow the pump to turn again.

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