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Cub Questions

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John, OH

07-10-2007 20:07:31




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I have just bought a Farmall Cub and it runs good. Engine is healthy; no smoke, no noises. What viscosity of oil are you using on this type of tractor? Also, does anyone have a wiring schematic for this tractor? It is a 1964.




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888

07-11-2007 09:52:30




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 Re: Cub Questions in reply to John, OH, 07-10-2007 20:07:31  
On the subject of oils, I have a newly acquired 1974 Cub Lo-Boy 154 so this thread confirms what a lot of other car and truck forums have taught me....there is nothing like an oil thread to bring out a lot of good information. I've run diesel VW's for years and a Dodge Cummins, I used to use Rotella T dino 15w40 but the Ohio winters turned the dino into syrup. A few years back, I started seeing Rotella synthetic 5w 40 in gallon jugs. I've used this for a few years and found it to be a good oil for the money, it holds good pressure even on 90 deg days on my Jetta diesel with 240k. The 5w and synthetic gets moving quickly at cold start at all temps, the 40 weight still protects when warm like the heavier oils. I'm probably going to try this syn Rotella 5w40 in the Cub when I get it going and flushed out, i like the detergents in the diesel oils but I like the advice about to change the filter a few times if unsure about what was in there previously (which is my case).

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Nat 2

07-11-2007 07:29:39




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 Re: Cub Questions in reply to John, OH, 07-10-2007 20:07:31  
If you get yourself a reprint of the owner's manual, both questions are answered there.

Oil is not so critical: SAE30, SAE40, 10W30, 10W40, detergent, non-detergent. It's all good. As long as it's a good quality oil, not some cat's #1 in a bottle, you can't go wrong. Non-detergent oils are all but extinct; every oil has some detergent in it. I personally use Shell Rotella T SAE30 because that is what is available and handy.

Wiring diagram is in the manual.

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Janicholson

07-10-2007 20:50:44




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 Re: Cub Questions in reply to John, OH, 07-10-2007 20:07:31  
I'm a multi wt proponent. 15-40 rotella, or Rpm Delo oil are superior. So are synthetics 10-40. Name brand car rated 10-30 is good on a new tight engine, but 10 40 is best for looser tractor engines. 45years of oil changes Ive seen oils change radically for the better. JimN



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Andy Motteberg

07-10-2007 20:38:44




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 Re: Cub Questions in reply to John, OH, 07-10-2007 20:07:31  
I bought Harvest King 10W40 All Season Oil for my H.



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ScottyHOMEy

07-10-2007 20:29:02




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 Re: Cub Questions in reply to John, OH, 07-10-2007 20:07:31  
Different responses is right! Any forum I ever hung arund on that dealt with engines has beat this topic to death any number of times. Which doesn't make it a bad quaetion. It just makes it hard to search the archives and find anything. ;8^)

Some would argue for multi-viscosity oils, but that's just a preference. Myself I use straight 30 in my tractors.

Only thing I'd toss at you, is consider getting a non-detergent oil (it's available, but you may have to ask for it) if you've got an older engine that may have significant crud built up in it. You don't want that stuff breaking loose on you.

If you're confident the engine was maintained well and has been run reasonably regularly and should therefore be reasonably clean inside, I'd recommend a regular detergent oil in straight 30.

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Ludwig

07-11-2007 07:26:28




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 Re: Cub Questions in reply to ScottyHOMEy, 07-10-2007 20:29:02  
Scotty is right about non-detergent. Unfortunately if you don't know what was run in it before you have to assume it was non-detergent. It'd be nice if you could ask.
Anyway its not all that hard to change over. I did with my Super M, heres how:
First I changed with non-detergent except with 1 quart of detergent oil. The idea being that introducing a little detergent would loosen some of the crud but not all of it.
Next I made another change more frequently than I normally would. Normally I change each fall leaving the tractor for the winter with fresh oil, this time I changed spring and fall. In the fall I switched to all detergent oil. I used store brand cheap 10w30.
In the spring I ran the tractor for 1 day (~8 hours) mowing and changed the oil again. Its worth noting that I always change the filter, thats DOUBLE important here because we're moving out built up crud so the filter is supposed to be grabbing it.
Again I used the cheap store brand oil. Another day of mowing and I changed again. The oil coming out at this point didn't look real bad, the change after the first 8 hours was black and nasty.

This time I put in Delvac 1300. I chose it because its a diesel oil and should have more detergents, its also a 15w40 oil and should leak less. The downside is that in cold weather I'm always careful to make an easy slow warm up so that thick oil gets moved around. I would not use this as a winter oil unless I was using a real good block heater or two.

So the Delvac 1300 stayed in until fall, this tractor doesn't get alot of use so that was maybe 32 total hours of use on that oil. Now we're back on the change it in the fall pattern using Delvac 1300 which I bought 5 gallons of.

At some point I'm going to switch to Mobil 1 15w50 and do some oil analysis. I suspect I could go 2 years on an oil change with that oil but I'm not sure. The big reason for using that oil is because I use it in almost all my other stuff (diesel car and 2 motorcycles) so I could save not inconsiderable money by buying a drum of it. Plus its nice to have exactly what you need hanging around when you need it.

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georgeky

07-10-2007 20:13:03




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 Re: Cub Questions in reply to John, OH, 07-10-2007 20:07:31  
You will get different responses, but I use SAE HD30 weight in all my Farmalls. Gas and diesel.



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Andy Motteberg

07-10-2007 20:10:16




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 Re: Cub Questions in reply to John, OH, 07-10-2007 20:07:31  
Here is a site with wiring diagrams.



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