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If you are talking about the belly pump, it"s not a hard job, just a heavy one. Leave the four cap bolts on the bottom until last. Use a pipe wrench to take off the three pipe fittings. Remove the control leaver and oil fill cap. Take off the inspection cover and remove the drive coupling by pulling the cotter pins and sliding the collars to the middle - the coupler will fall out, don"t let it hit you. The tricky part is next. The pump is not flat on the bottom as well as top heavy, and will want to flip over when it clears the casting. There are lots of inventive ways to bring it down safely(lots of pics in the archives). IH suggests keyed T-handles, but if you"re not doing this more than once, you likely dont have a set laying around. Some people have modified transmission jacks to let the pump down slowley, others strap it to a rafter pulley and lower it that way. One way that works well but takes a little time is to replace two of the cap bolts with threaded rod in diagonal bolt holes (the pump will stay in place with the remaining two bolts until you are ready), spin nuts onto the rod finger snug and remove the remaining cap bolts. Now lower the pump by taking the nuts off the threded rod a little at a time on each side. Whatever you do, be careful. The pump is heavy and no matter what you think, you will not be able to control it if it falls. You can mash a finger, toe or worse and even if you get out of the way you may break the casting when it hits the floor and you"ll be looking for another pump.
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