Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Farmall Super C rear axle replacement - Help needed

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
ed 342

06-28-2007 20:52:14




Report to Moderator

Finally got a set of used rear axles and the time to tackle the job. Got the deck plate off and found the right axle had sheared right at the gear. Probably because of some torquing the broken piece of axle won't come out of the gear (the disc is removed) so I have to remove the gear to get the broken shaft end out. There are two tubes running front to back, at least one (the outside one) which has to be removed to get the gear out. The manual I ordered hasn't arrived yet so can anyone advise the best way to remove these 2 tubes, at least the right one which looks like it carries oil to the pto? Is it necessary to remove the pto to get this tube out of the way? Is there much oil pressure through this tube?

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Harold Hubbard

06-29-2007 20:12:48




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmall Super C rear axle replacement - Help needed in reply to ed 342, 06-28-2007 20:52:14  
You will have to remove the PTO and belt pulley to get the tubes out. One of them is the drive shaft to the PTO, the other supplies oil to the PTO unit. There is no oil pressure in it, the oil just splashes up into a channel on one side of the transmission, and drains down the tube into the PTO. The tube is held in place by a threaded ring that you will be able to see after you remove the PTO. The ring has notches in it for a spanner, but I have always used a hammer and punch to remove them.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ed342

07-08-2007 08:48:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmall Super C rear axle replacement - Help needed in reply to Harold Hubbard, 06-29-2007 20:12:48  
Harold - Your comments & advice have been better than the manual I purchased. Please help again. We got the axle & bull gear installed and replaced the deck. Now we have shifting and clutch problems. Clutching seems to free wheel the pto and side pulley but does nothing for the gears. We have, variously, an unfamiliar pattern of what may be 1st and 2nd, then perhaps 3rd & 4th, with an occasional reverse thrown in. We tried lining all up to neutral with no luck. I am assuming we will have to remove the deck again and look for something we did wrong. Can you help with this problem? Thanks, Ron

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ed342

06-29-2007 22:12:35




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmall Super C rear axle replacement - Help needed in reply to Harold Hubbard, 06-29-2007 20:12:48  
Harold - Thanks very much for your info. I got the tubes out and was then able to remove the large gear on the broken axle (is this gear the 'bull gear'?). It had sheared practically flush with the outer side of the gear spline. The broken end came out of the gear easily. Then I saw that some 3/8 of the spline on the break side of the gear was also broken. That still leaves a lot of the spline to slide the new axle shaft in but I'm thinking the torques that sheared the shaft probably extend to weakened metal further into the gear splines and a repeat of this process might be just waiting to happen if I reuse this gear. I'm going to pick up a different gear, used and no guarantee but no signs of damage and not from a damaged shaft. The gear splines on the broken shaft are heavily torgued out of shape for about 3/8". I'm curious about why this shaft broke and wondering about the condition of my other axle shaft. I've been using this Super C for five years for quite a bit of snow pulling with a rear mounted blade and even more heavy brush hogging with a pull behind 5 ft. JD brush hog. I don't know the previous use of this tractor but in thinking it over I almost always use the right (damaged) brake. Could that be a significant factor in this axle breaking? There have also been a few times (mostly when pulling snow) when after breaking the gear box in 1st or 2nd would lock up (to the point of stalling out the engine)and I would have to shift into 3rd or 4th briefly to get her going again - then she would be fine. Something similar also happened one time in reverse when I was bringing her down from a trailer although that time she seemed to lock up on the left wheel when I applied the brakes. Possibly I locked the pedals together that time and I think I chalked that up to the brake facing material at the time - but perhaps it had something to do with this axle just giving an indication it was getting ready to fail. Do you have any thoughts on that? I have been advised that I can safely, even preferrably, use a high-torque silicone gasket compound for all the gaskets I will need to reassemble everything I've disassembled here. Since the oil pressures and temperatures are practically non existant back here I'm comfortable with using the silicone in place of gaskets for most of this but I'm a bit concerned about using silicone in mounting the axle shaft housing and possibly the pto unit. The field torques and vibrations on these two units are going to be appreciable. Especially on the axle housing. Do you know if there is a given torque range on the housing bolts? Otherwise I was going to cut new gaskets from cork. Do you have a recommendation on these gasket approaches? Thanks again. Your comments are very helpful and appreciated.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Harold Hubbard

06-30-2007 05:38:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmall Super C rear axle replacement - Help needed in reply to Ed342, 06-29-2007 22:12:35  
I have been through this movie several times with a C and two supers. There are two different types of bull gear. If you have the one that is a solid steel gear, it will last through several axles, even if the ends of the splines are a little damaged. If you have one with a steel rim riveted onto a cast iron hub, you will eventually take the splines out of it.

The axles are a weak point in the C, Super C, 200, etc. I have not had as much trouble since I stopped plowing snow with the C. I think that the constant shuttling between forward and reverse, with chains on and heavy ballast, is really rough on the axles.

I have always used the old gasket on the PTO housing, and bought new for the axle housing and the deck. I use just a thin smear of silicone to hold the gaskets in place for installation. You should also use non hardening sealer of some kind on the bolts that hold down the cover. Otherwise the specially designed IH water funneling bolt holes will add rainwater to your transmission oil.

I don't know if IH ever gave a spec for the torques, but the deck and PTO aren't really critical, just tighten them up with a ratchet. The axle housing should be tightened just as hard as you can without getting stupid, and recheck it after a couple day's use. I don't have one handy, but there are generic torque charts available, with the torque based on the size and grade of the bolt. One of those will get you close enough, and is useful for other things as well.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
georgeky

06-28-2007 21:54:40




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmall Super C rear axle replacement - Help needed in reply to ed 342, 06-28-2007 20:52:14  
There is a good chance you will have to pull the belt pulley PTO and remove the tube.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ed342

07-03-2007 21:54:05




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmall Super C rear axle replacement - Help needed in reply to georgeky, 06-28-2007 21:54:40  
Right. Had to pull the pto, belt pulley and oil flow tube, also the pto tube assembly. Then we removed the right bull gear and extracted the broken axle end. At that point I realized the gear splines were damaged and had to get a new (used) gear. I know there are others on this site who are wanting to replace a rear axle through the pto port. That can probably be done if everything is on your side - however if you have any problem getting a piece of the old axle out of the gear or if there is any possibility that the b gear is damaged you are going to have to remove the deck plate. It's a couple hours extra work but you might as well go directly to that. Be prepared to tap out a handful of deck bolts. Seems the bolt head recesses in the deck pool water and many bolts rust through. (You'll be buying new ones so you might as well pick up a dozen when you get your gaskets and PB Blaster). Also, the reinstall is probably going to take you and a chain hoist and good jack or at least 2 guys able to lift a lot of weight at odd angles. 3 guys work better expecially for the reinstall. I might as well mention that you will want to remove the battery, battery box, and get the guage box and steering wheel assembly out of the way and up. It worked best on this job (2 guys, no chain hoist) to rig a frame over the steering wheel to raise and tie up the steering wheel, guage box and all controls. We found it convenient to leave the hydraulic lines connected, used one of these 3-fold aluminum ladders configured to form a table close and parallel to the tractor body and just slid the deck plate, with seat attached, over onto that. The rear wheel and fender were already off. All in all, if I ever have to do this job again I am going for the chain fall option, especially for the reinstall. The parts are heavy, although all doable, but that weight takes on an excess when your're working at an angle if you use the ladder/table approach and don't remove they hydraulic lines, and both wheels completely, including weights and center rims. Good luck.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy