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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Cylinder Sleeves

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Dave From Texas

02-14-2007 10:31:58




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What is the best way to remove the Sleeves out of a Farmall A? Can you do it with out removing the block? How hard are they usually stuck?




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Janicholson

02-14-2007 16:52:13




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 Re: Cylinder Sleeves in reply to Dave From Texas, 02-14-2007 10:31:58  
Dear Dave, the information so far has "kinda" missed what I said in my post below, these are wet sleeve engines. the sleeves are modestly easy to remove and in no case require welding or a puller. Many of these come out when the crank is rotated, and the pistons move up on somewhat rusty cylinder walls. In many cases they will come out when the rods are disconnected, and the piston is pushed up from the bottom. If the pistons are out, put the wood I mentioned against the bottom of the sleeve and rap it with a mallet. They come out!
The best option would be to put the largest cylinder bore/piston kit in it (you will be replacing the entire cylinder with ones that are slightly thinner, and putting in new pistons, creating a 123 cid engine where a 113 was before. (unless it was already maxed out)
Kits from this site are good.
The crank would only be usable as is ====only==== if just the lightest surface rust was on it. If 000 steel wool and just two passes remove the rust, and if it mics out (across the journals, and around the journals at least 6 to 8 locations per journal) would I leave it in the tractor. To remove it requires the splitting of the tractor it is necessary, not optional. JimN

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sentry

02-14-2007 13:51:00




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 Re: Cylinder Sleeves in reply to Dave From Texas, 02-14-2007 10:31:58  
Dave,

There are many methods to remove piston sleeves (liners). I have always had great success by utilizing a sleeve puller. This method is the safe way , it causes no damage to the block if properly performed. Sometimes they can be stuck in pretty bad. Heat can be used to persuade them but sparingly. As far as performing this without removing the block.. Yes, it can be done. Although to prepare the block for new sleeves it is best to remove the block, thoroughly inspect and clean the mating surfaces. An engine stand will help you there as you will be able to position the block for ease of work.

El Toro and Janicholson have also provided you with some very valuable advice. If you have never done this before find a friend with some experience and take it slow. Remember it all has to go back together.

Good luck with the restoration…

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El Toro

02-14-2007 11:58:15




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 Re: Cylinder Sleeves in reply to Dave From Texas, 02-14-2007 10:31:58  
What shape is the crankshaft in? It should be measured for wear and at least have it polished.
The block area where the sleeve seals (doughnuts)
are installed need to be thoroughly cleaned. Any scale, rust or dirt needs to be removed. You don't want to have to pull the engine apart again
for any leaks around those sleeves. I would pull the engine it's a lot easier to work on. Hal



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Dave from Texas

02-14-2007 12:50:03




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 Re: Cylinder Sleeves in reply to El Toro, 02-14-2007 11:58:15  
The Tractor had been apart for a long time before I bought it. The crank does have rust on it. I have not measured it yet. I was planning to clean it up and use fine steel wool to remove the rust. Then take measurements to see if it will work "as is". Is this OK or does it need to be polished by a machine shop. The rod, bearings and pistons were all together. One of the Sleeves is pitted where water stood, I think. The other sleeves look OK. I wanted to do some engine work, so it looks like I got my wish.

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El Toro

02-14-2007 14:48:38




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 Re: Cylinder Sleeves in reply to Dave from Texas, 02-14-2007 12:50:03  
third party image

Let me try that picture again. Hal



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El Toro

02-14-2007 14:45:49




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 Re: Cylinder Sleeves in reply to Dave from Texas, 02-14-2007 12:50:03  
third party image

I would take the crankshaft to your auto machine and have it measured. This will determine if just polishing is needed. If it's worn beyond the wear limits it may need to be ground undersize. If that block is full of sludge it should be cleaned including all oil passages. Your machine shop can furnish new rod and main bearings too. I did an A 30 years ago and the crankshaft journals looked liked bronze. Our local machine shop called and said all it needed was polishing and new .002" undersize bearings.
The shaft looked new when I picked it up. I got the bearings from them too. Here's a picture of it. Hal

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gene bender

02-14-2007 14:02:06




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 Re: Cylinder Sleeves in reply to Dave from Texas, 02-14-2007 12:50:03  
I would take the crank to a machine shop and let them clean the rust as mosr have a small lathe for polishing. You should be able to rent a small sleeve puller sometimes the sleeve can be stuck pretty good. If the sleeves are junk stuck ones will come out easier by welding a bead on the inside this will heat it enough to pull out better.



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Janicholson

02-14-2007 10:47:00




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 Re: Cylinder Sleeves in reply to Dave From Texas, 02-14-2007 10:31:58  
They are wet sleeves. There is an "O"ring at the bottom, and the top rim seals against the head gasket. They will come out easily, from the bottom, going up,with a hardwood stick, and a mallet. Avoid the crank so as not to nick it. Use new "O"rings and dish detergent as a lube to put things together. Clean and inspect the top rim seat in the block to prevent poor seating. JimN



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