model # and help with Gm one wire conversion

A resistor, lamp, or diode in the "switched excire" circuit is STILL a good idea, though, 'cause if there's ever a poor connection in the charging circuit, current will instead try to flow to the battery through the alternator's diode trio and voltage regulator, and your oil pressure switch.

This will NEVER be a problem on less something happens to the charging circuit, so you're PROABLY OK.

He's the details, if you care to follow the schematics.

So, what do you have against the simple "idiot light" or diode setup? It CAN'T be cost... a buck or two for the diode, and the standard alternator is more than likely CONSIDERABLY cheaper the the (goofy) "one-wire" unit.

It works PERFECTLY, because the alternator is being used like it's designers intended.

The (goofy) one-wire units (in this type of alternator) are a strictly aftermarket creations, and cause 90% of the problems folks have with alternator conversions.

I don't know WHAT you think I had trouble figuring out! I repair alternators for a living, and have been doing these conversions since the 10SI's were only on the market a year or two.

What I HAVE figured out is that the (goofy) "one-wire" units are often a pain in the butt when used on low-revving antique tractors. From all the posts on here about them, it looks like I'm not the only one seeing those problems.

I just don't see why folks are SO fascinated with the "one-wire" alternators, when it's so easy to connect up a SUPERIOR 3-wire system.

I'm glad to see I'm not the ONLY one with who sees it that way.

Too bad, it sounds like you may already have bought the one-wire unit. For LESS money, you can get a standard "3-wire" unit that will "excite" at a slower speed, and is LESS likely to drain the battery over periods of non-use.

All you need to add to connect the "3-wire" unit is a simple diode ($1.00), or an "idiot light", and a length of #16 wire to run to the ignition switch, from the alternator's #1 "switched excite" terminal.

Your text and your picture are different. Why the box that mentions "voltage regulator? Where did that come from and does it need to be purchased?

Moreover, if it is possible to retro wire a one wire alternator, it seems to me that info should be offered.

SORRY for the confusion!

For those NOT completely rewiring their tractor, the "BATT" post on the OLD voltage regulator, remaining from the GENERATOR CAN BE used a a "terminal post" to join the output wire from the alternator to the electrical system on the tractor, to minmimize rewiring.

The old voltage regulator, if left in place, and used as stated in the previous paragraph serves NO function other than as a "insulated terminal" to join the old wire to the ammeter AND the wire from the new alternator. I, myself, would connect the wires by other means, and tidy things up by removing the old regulator, but I HAVE seen a lot of conversions leaving the regulator in place, and using it as stated.

OF course, a TOTAL rewire job, with new wires of the proper gauge is a LOT better idea!

A (goofy) one-wire Delco alternator can be restored to it's ORIGINAL 3-wire configuration by carefully taking it apart, installing an "OEM-style" internal voltage regulator and diode trio.

The brushes have to be put in place, and then pinned, so the alternator can be re-assembled, and then the pin is withdrwawn, allowing the brushes to snap down into place, on the "slip rings".

I HOPE this makes things more clear!

BobM's diagrams for alternator conversions show 3-wire systems, using an "idiot light", which, as I said works equally well as the diode or resistor.