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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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300u idle speed, tach parts.. buncha ?s

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JayWalt

01-20-2007 10:46:25




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Hey Guys. I broke down and bought a tach cable for my 300u. ($32 =\) Got it today. When I was putting in the drive unit, the manual says to turn the hub until it stops (full gear mesh), then turn back one notch. Well mine turns all the way indicating that drive gear needs replaced. It still turns when I point the closed part of the hub to the distributor shaft, so it will work for now, I'll ge one when I can find one.
Now I started the tractor, and it idles at 1200 rpm when I have the throttle all the way down and the choke in. This is after only a few minutes of running. I thought maybe the tach gauge was messed up, so I got out my dwell tach meter and it shows 1100 rpm, which is not far off since the need rests at nearly 100 when the tractor is off. So how do I get the idle down?
A few things I've thought of but havent investigated yet is the carb setting (I had to adjust them when I first ogt the tractor because it was way off and wouldnt run for poo), govenor maybe out of whack? I also thught maybe it has to warm up for it to lower, but I thought that was just on newer fuel injected engines?
The manual says the minimum governed idle speed is 400 to 450rpm. I'd like to get the tractor in the 700rpm area. Now maybe this idle is normal, I dont know and maybe that manual spec speed is when the tractor is given a sudden load and the engine drops in rpm. The tractor seems to run fine at the current idle and seems if it went down alot more maybe it wouldnt run so smooth, I'm not sure. This is a loader tractor and there will be alot of idle time, so for fuel efficiency the better idle the less fuel I'll use. The hour gauge is hours at 1750rpm, with a max rpm of 2200, and my idle of 1100 1750 is nearly the middle and so I thought maybe it was normal, but I dont know.
I would also like to check the dwell, but I dont know what the specs are for this engine (c169 gas). It's not like I could fix the distributor shaft lobe as I'm too cheap to buy something like that or even think about messing with the pump, but I'm just curious.

Thanks for any help guys, I appreciate it as always!!

We are supposed to get 1-3" tomorrow so maybe I can do a little plowing =)

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Janicholson

01-20-2007 16:57:50




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 Re: Cam angle/Dwell in reply to JayWalt, 01-20-2007 10:46:25  
No offense Teady52Food, A dwell reading is the amount of distributor rotation during which the points remain closed. Dwell depends on the specification for the point gap, the effect of ramp angle on the point opening, the lever angle/ratio of the points, and if it is a dual point system. Dwell specs are usually not transferable from one distributor type to another, and are usually specific to a type. Many specifications are similar. Variation in dwell from one cam lobe to the next is a look at the shaft/bushing wear, or play in the cam mounting method. I is measured with a distributor testor, (or a degree wheel on the engine and a timing light). Many farmalls will Idle so slow that it is difficult to believe. Setting it to the 400 range is good policy. JimN

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JayWalt

01-20-2007 15:19:16




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 Re: 300u idle speed, tach parts.. buncha ?s in reply to JayWalt, 01-20-2007 10:46:25  
Got Her all done. All buttoned up. Runs great, tach works, perfect RPM at about 600, quiet as heck. She is all good to go for plowing snow... Ideally it would be nice to have a functioning charge system, but I'm tired of messing with it and dont wanna dump $$ into a new gen. Maybe this summer I will convert to 12v and use one of my many alternators. I also made a flapper but its aluminum and expands and falls down. I might either rivet it to the muffler so it can't or roll a lip on the top. Nobody seems to make one for the size of pipe I need, and they are steel which rusts. Other then that I couldnt be happier!!
We are supposed to get 1-3" tomorrow, So I'll Hopefully get some pics.

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teddy52food

01-20-2007 14:50:20




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 Re: 300u idle speed, tach parts.. buncha ?s in reply to JayWalt, 01-20-2007 10:46:25  
Dwell on the GM v8 was 30 degrees. On a 4 cyl it would be double ,60 degrees.



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JayWalt

01-20-2007 14:05:46




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 Re: 300u idle speed, tach parts.. buncha ?s in reply to JayWalt, 01-20-2007 10:46:25  
I'm sure I dont have distributor issues, it's just one of those "might as well test it while I got the tester out" thingies =P. No biggie.
I will mess with the carb adjustments sometime. I never had a tach before So I had no idea how she was idling, I new it was a fast idle, but not that fast =P
Do you know if it is necessary for the engine to be warmed up to get a better accurate idle speed or does that generally not matter?
Thanks for the help buddy!!4

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CNKS

01-20-2007 14:47:16




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 Re: 300u idle speed, tach parts.. buncha ?s in reply to JayWalt, 01-20-2007 14:05:46  
Idle speed, or at least the smoothness of it is controlled by the choke during warm up, assuming the carb is in good shape. If it is warmed up enough so that it idles smoothly at whatever idle speed you want, then further warming should not change it. Carbureted automotive engines with an automatic choke idle faster until the choke fully opens, fuel injected idle speed is computer controlled, as are some carbureted engines. In any event, it is best not to adjust anything until the engine is warmed up. Actually, I don't think I have ever tried to run a cold tractor engine at the lowest possible idle as they usually die. Long answer to a simple question. The short answer is: Just run the thing a few minutes and set it.

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CNKS

01-20-2007 11:34:52




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 Re: 300u idle speed, tach parts.. buncha ?s in reply to JayWalt, 01-20-2007 10:46:25  
You should be able to turn the idle speed screw out until the engine dies, that is the screw just below and to the rear of the piece that attaches to the tube that runs to the governor. Turn it in or out for the desired rpm, then adjust the idle mixture screw -- the one that angles out of the throttle body below and slightly to the rear of the idle speed screw, in or out until it runs smoothly. The main jet screw (lower front of the carb bowl) is usually left 4 or 5 turns out from the seat for max power, it can be turned in for better economy, turn it in too far and the tractor will stumble under load. This adjustment is not done like on the H carbureter that preceded it, that is in until rough, out until smooth. If your carb is clean with no defective parts, and this procedure does not work, then you could have governor problems, that is another story. I don't know the dwell reading but it is not necessary to check the dwell on that distributer, just set the points at 0.020 on the high side of the cam and you are there. If you do have problems with the distributer cam, you have to fix that or it will never run right.

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CNKS

01-20-2007 11:29:20




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 Re: 300u idle speed, tach parts.. buncha ?s in reply to JayWalt, 01-20-2007 10:46:25  
You should be able to turn the idle speed screw out until the engine dies, that is the screw just below and to the rear of the piece that attaches to the tube that runs to the governor. Turn it in or out for the desired rpm, then adjust the idle mixture screw -- the one that angles out of the throttle body below and slightly to the rear of the idle speed screw, in or out until it runs smoothly. The main jet screw (lower front of the carb bowl) is usually left 4 or 5 turns out from the seat for max power, it can be turned in for better economy, turn it in too far and the tractor will stumble under load. This adjustment is not done like on the H carbureter that preceded it, that is in until rough, out until smooth. If your carb is clean with no defective parts, and this procedure does not work, then you could have governor problems, that is another story. I don't know the dwell reading but it is not necessary to check the dwell on that distributer, just set the points at 0.020 on the high side of the cam and you are there. If you do have problems with the distributer cam, you have to fix that or it will never run right.

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