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Rust removal

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sattin

12-26-2006 05:21:17

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Was wondering if anyone here uses electrolysis for rust removal? I discovered it at another hobby of mine..(old woodworking machinery). I would like to have known about it before I rebuilt my 41,W-4. It"s the way to go for a lot of projects! Rod

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Fancy Farm

12-26-2006 19:06:15

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Re: Rust removal in reply to sattin, 12-26-2006 05:21:17

I have several tanks of different sizes I use but for a big tank I use a 55 gal steel drum and just hook to the durm and suspend parts in the drum. I know the drum won't last long but they are cheep.

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Keith-OR

12-26-2006 14:06:55

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Re: Rust removal in reply to sattin, 12-26-2006 05:21:17

sattin, I have been using the electrolysis for better than 5 years now. Works really well on most steel parts, will also work on aluminum piston, BUT you need to use another medium in your water(anything that will not harm aluminum). Here is a website with all the info and how to build your tank.

after you get Frank's website up, click on "restoration tips"...HTH

Keith & Shawn

Electrolysis Info and tank

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Hurdy in Aussie

12-26-2006 13:10:29

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Re: Rust removal in reply to sattin, 12-26-2006 05:21:17

i am resroring a SA and am using the electrolysis system, it has saved me a lot of hard work trying to get rust of also paint.
hurdy

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230,H,M

12-26-2006 10:47:21

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Re: Rust removal PAINT in reply to sattin, 12-26-2006 05:21:17

Does it work on paint too?

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RustyFarmall

12-26-2006 11:20:53

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Re: Rust removal PAINT in reply to 230,H,M, 12-26-2006 10:47:21

Yes, it will work on paint, but you may need to periodically help it along with a wire brush.

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the Unforgiven

12-26-2006 13:58:28

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Re: Rust removal PAINT in reply to RustyFarmall, 12-26-2006 11:20:53

You've got to fine tune your system, Rusty. When you get it right the pieces come out looking like fresh steel, or freshly machined castings. It's just like a glass beader that can get into every nook and cranny without those pesky abrasives to worry about. I think most of the troubles people have with it can be traced to bad connections or a dirty anode, because it is really pretty forgiving. At any rate, I am sold on it.

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RustyFarmall

12-26-2006 14:04:29

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Re: Rust removal PAINT in reply to the Unforgiven, 12-26-2006 13:58:28

I think the dismal results I had was directly due to the fact that I wasn't using enough power.

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Scott Griffith

12-26-2006 08:40:15

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Re: Rust removal in reply to sattin, 12-26-2006 05:21:17

I love this topic. I cut the top off of a 55 gallon plastic drum and have used whatever I can find for an electrode. The bigger the electrode the more amperage you can draw and the faster it will work. I like it because I can go to work for a week, come back home and my parts are ready to clean off and blast or prime.

Scott

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the Unforgiven

12-26-2006 08:02:37

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Re: Rust removal in reply to sattin, 12-26-2006 05:21:17

It's the hot set-up if you don't like to break parts. I use several different tubs, from Tupperware for small parts to a fiberglass tank that will accomidate a six-cylinder engine. I did an Economy engine that had been buried, and I mean it was rusty, the nuts on the head bolts were nearly rusted off, the valve stems were rusted off even with the guides. It was in for three weeks and drawing all the amps I could put to it. When it came out, it was disassembled using a screwdriver, pliers, and a hammer and driver for the piston in less than 30 minutes with no broken parts! Did a Hopkins and Allen rifle that was rusted solid, when it came out, if not for the hammer spring being rusted in half, you could have dropped in a round and fired it. When you get the hang of it it really is amazing.

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Greg-N-CA

12-26-2006 06:17:43

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Re: Rust removal in reply to sattin, 12-26-2006 05:21:17

I've been using it for years! As a matter of fact, I 'm cleaning parts for my 48 SA restoration project right now.

I have two tanks set up for different shape pieces. One is a 55 gallon plastic drum with the top cut off, I have rebar cut in lengths just short of the bottom of the tank spaced four inches apart around the side of it. The other tank is a 55 gallon plastic drum with about a third of the side cut open. I have it on its side with rebar spaced lengthwise.

The rebar in both tanks are connected to each other to make a grid. Using a 12 AMP battery charger, I connect the positive wire to my grid and the negative wire to the piece I'm cleaning. I use 4 to 5 cups of Arm & Hammer Washing Soda to a tank full of water as my solution.

My son took first place in his school's science fair with an electrolysis demonstration. Yes, it is slow, but its very efficient and environmentally friendly in that it uses no caustic chemicals.

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Chris Todd

12-26-2006 06:10:30

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Re: Rust removal in reply to sattin, 12-26-2006 05:21:17

Sattin,
Try this link.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/FAQ"s,%20Tips,%20Technique"s%20and%

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RustyFarmall

12-26-2006 05:31:43

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Re: Rust removal in reply to sattin, 12-26-2006 05:21:17

I have experimented with it, but gave up because it was so slow. Since then I have realized that maybe My methods could use a little improvement, so I will be trying again. I'm thinking it might be a good way to get those severely stuck rings out of those otherwise perfect H pistons, without damaging the pistons.

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CLIFF S

12-26-2006 06:45:42

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Re: Rust removal in reply to RustyFarmall, 12-26-2006 05:31:43

Heat your stuck rings with a torch slowly and pick the brittle rings out! The heat makes them loose and easy to pick out! But take your time the rings will be brittle and break in peces but they will come out!

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RustyFarmall

12-26-2006 08:06:53

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Re: Rust removal in reply to CLIFF S , 12-26-2006 06:45:42

Cliff, I have done it that way, but I always end up nicking the grooves just a little, and it always takes several heating and cooling cycles to finally persuade those stuck rings, which means I use quite a bit of oxy and acetylene, which is not cheap. I just think the electrolysis method might be worth trying.

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teddy52food

12-26-2006 10:27:41

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Re: Rust removal in reply to RustyFarmall, 12-26-2006 08:06:53

If heating with the torch, when the ring gap opens up, have an oil squirt can with atf handy & squirt some in while hot. Let it soak until cool ,then reheat & start tapping them in & out. I usually get them off in one piece. Have the piston on it's side so the atf can run down behind the ring. You may have to do them one at a time. Just takes time. Go slow.

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RustyFarmall

12-26-2006 11:18:27

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Re: Rust removal in reply to teddy52food, 12-26-2006 10:27:41

I've heated them until I was afraid of the aluminum melting, and the ring gap never opened up. I squirted the oil on, let it cool completely, and did the whole process again. The ring gap still did not open up. You guys that talk about how easy it is to free a stuck engine apparently have never tackled an engine that was really, truly stuck.

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the Unforgiven

12-26-2006 14:06:39

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Re: Rust removal in reply to RustyFarmall, 12-26-2006 11:18:27

You got that right. I like to pipe up about PB sometimes when old prescribes tranny fluid, but the truth is if either one "loosens" the engine it really wasn't stuck.

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RustyFarmall

12-26-2006 14:34:17

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Re: Rust removal in reply to the Unforgiven , 12-26-2006 14:06:39

And that's the truth. Thank you.

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tractorsam

12-26-2006 06:34:39

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Re: Rust removal in reply to RustyFarmall, 12-26-2006 05:31:43

I've played with this a bit and done a little bit of reading. If your pistons are aluminium you might want to think twice about using electrolysis on it as I think you'll find it will/might eat the aluminium. Hope this helps, tractorsam

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