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CONFUSED!?!?!?!?!

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H fanatic

12-16-2006 22:49:23




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Well, I took the pistons out of my 1946 Farmall H today and I checked the ring end gap. I had gotten specs on the ring end gap from someone here and they said it was supposed to be .010"-.020" for all the rings but, I found out that the oil ring is about .015" +/- some. But the other 3 compression rings had a lot wider gap than the oil ring. So how can rings ware unevenly? Or do I have the wrong specs? It had good compression before. Also, what is the really skinny slot that goes around the piston above all the piston rings?

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Janicholson

12-17-2006 07:46:02




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 Re: CONFUSED!?!?!?!?! in reply to H fanatic, 12-16-2006 22:49:23  
Unanswered first: A groove cut in the outside edge of a piston that is not a ring groove is a heat dam. These are used to prevent combustion heat from traveling down the metal of the piston directly. Their use is quite common. cleaning them is a good idea if one is careful not to remove much metal. A ring groove cleaner with a cutter ground down to fit works well.

Ring gap provides a space for the ring to expand Circumferentially and still not touch end to end (which would sieze the engine). Ring gap should be measured in an unworn location in the bore. If looked at in a location that is worn, it is not accurate. Unworn locations can be found at the bottom of the cyl. Usually 1/2" up from the very bottom. Another location is above the top ring/ridge. (if and only if this area has never been ridgereamed or honed in some abnormal way).
In all cases the tightest gap measured on a ring in various locations in a bore, can be assumed to be the tightest spot in the bore)
One way to approximate bore taper/wear is to measure ring gap in the most worn spots (just below the top (1/16") of the ring wear area), and at the bottom as noted above. The change in Circumference converted into diameter will indicate taper in the bore (not as accurately as a set of cylinder micrometers used correctly, but good enough to determine if a cylinder is worn drastically.
All single piece oil control rings are old technology and should (in almost all cases be replaced with three piece rings with (effectively) no gap. Cleaning the ring groove is drastically important, as is doing it without removing metal. The groove clearance (side of ring to ring groove) is important because if too large it causes a pumping effect of oil around the back side of the ring. RIng groove taper (wallowing out of the squareness of the groove) is also a reason to junk the piston. Or if it is irreplacable, the groove can be cut wider and a steel repair ring can be inserted (they look like a scraper rail from a three piece oil ring) to take the piston back to usable. I hope this helps, good luck, JimN

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Stan(PA)

12-17-2006 05:57:49




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 Re: CONFUSED!?!?!?!?! in reply to H fanatic, 12-16-2006 22:49:23  
Just asking, but you do know that the end gap is measured with the rings compressed in the cylinder, right? Just a thought...



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Randy as in Randy-IA

12-17-2006 09:47:45




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 Re: CONFUSED!?!?!?!?! in reply to Stan(PA), 12-17-2006 05:57:49  
Also , to make sure the ring is square in the bore use a piston without rings on it and push the ring into the right position .



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banjo

12-16-2006 23:05:28




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 Re: CONFUSED!?!?!?!?! in reply to H fanatic, 12-16-2006 22:49:23  
my book shows the end gap for the H as 0.010-0.020

top compression ring width 1/8 oil ring width 1/4 top comp. ring side clearance 0.004 other ring side clearance 0.002-0.0035 sleeve taper 0.0155
top ring side clearance in groove 0.006

I have not had my H apart , but my super A had cast pistons with 4 grooves. top is compression other 3 were oil rings if i remember right.



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banjo

12-16-2006 23:13:20




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 Re: CONFUSED!?!?!?!?! in reply to banjo, 12-16-2006 23:05:28  
correction, two plain compression rings, one tepered compresion ring , o oil regulating ring.

if the other reply is hard to read it wasn't typed the way it posted.



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