Old H beast running again , but have Hitiachi alt

Converted to the Hitatchi 14231 alternator as suggested, have lots of amps, but only 12.5 volts. Not experienced with this brand alt. I would expect to see over 13 volts. Ran a wire from the S terminal to the bat terminal on the alternator as directed. Had to use a bracket off a Dodge pickup for the time being until I can fabricate a better one.

Took a new battery & internally ballasted 12v coil, new ignition switch, a scrubbing of the sediment bowl-new screen and gasket, new spark plug wires and plugs, cap and rotor (they were fun to find), points, a few feet of 14 ga wire, and better smelling gas than it had in it to start, and a quick drop of the lower half of the carb to un-stick the needle & float and clean out the main metering circuit.

Lot of work but it doesn't smoke, hits strong on all four of the 300U engine's cylinders, idles and fires right off. So there is hope again.

Maybe now my wife won't think I'm quite as big an old fool as she did yesterday, but not counting on that.

Thx SKK for the responses.

Battery took normal charge yesterday before being put into the tractor, using a battery charger.

Also, not standard lights, but large 12v combine lights. The way the beast came.

Are we sure this unit is internally regulated? Need a resistor in the feedback loop? Does it need the V-sense source at the battery, and not not on the alternator bat terminal? The alternator fits a 720 Datsun pickup.

Thx skk

Doesnt using automotive alternators require the use of a different pulley? The alternator require an rpm input simaliar to what it would see on a car. A tractor's engine's maxx rpm in general is around 2000, whereas thats barely an throttle on a car. I'm not sure of what size pulley or if you've already addressed this, just thought I would throw it out there...

Use a hydrometer similar to this for checking that specific gravity in your battery cells. The readings should be fairly close to one another.
Hal

"Have seen 80 amp alt burned up by VR set for 100 amp. Same as most cars with this system."

Sounds like an "urban legend" to me, and I repair alternators.

Since when does a typical automotive alternator have a voltage regulator that can be set for 80 or 100 Amps?

MOST automotive alternator regulators (if not ALL) don't even monitor the output current, and the alternators tend to be self-limiting, as to current. (Altogether UNLIKE the original DC generators that would have been used on these machines.)

Heck, on many of them, the high current output from the rectifier doesn't even pass NEAR the regulator.

(Just for the record, we're not talking about exotic late-model stuff here, we're talking about alternators from a few years back, that are commonly used for 12-Volt conversions on tractors.)

John T