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Wardner: I've never seen duals on a Standard or W series tractor. How close are these duals you describe to the snap on duals that came from aftermarket, for just about any tractor in the 1970s and since. I say snap on but they actually used two fastening systems. The dual actually had a cylinder type spacer welded to it, which fitted into inside rim. Lugs on inside wheel used I bolts, to which over center bind type of device or bolt held out side rim tight to the inside rim. The first tractor I ever added duals was my 1066, and they were axle clamp duals. The manual clearly stated, " Do not use the tractor equiped with duals for a maximum pull in the 3 lowest gears." IH must have had some concerns about power train or chassis. When I added the duals, I was looking for flotation, thus I got rid of Calcium Chloride. I never did have wheel weights on the tractor. I liked what I did so well, that within a year I bought a set of duals that I could use on either Farmalls 560 or 656. Again I got rid of all Chloride and wheel weights. I actually found my tractors had better traction in a field situation with duals and no weight added, and indeed the dual reduced the print in the soil. Bear in mind this does not hold true on hard or frozen ground. I actually had quite a merry ride once with 1066 on duals 12 ton manure spreader on frozen ground. I also remember my 300 with chloride and wheel weights getting better traction on hard roads pulling loaded silage wagons than 560 or 656 with duals and no weight. When you think about it 300 probably had about same rear end weight, and probably 3 times the pounds per square inch on road. 300 had single 13.6x38 while 560 and 656 had 16.9x38 duals. Even with duals off I expect 300 had higher pounds per square inch than the 560 or 656. The one thing I do have against duals and this was especially true on 1066. Probably because of tractor size and it pulled more heavy draft loads the 560 or 656 did. Under heavy load dualed tractors want to go straight ahead. They beat the hell out of front end and brakes. If I were doing it over, that 1066 would have come with front wheel drive. Not only for the larger front tires, but I've driven a couple of dualed tractors since with front drive engaged, just amazing what it does for steering control, plus not having to jump on brakes even in slight steering correction. I think you will find keeping weight and adding duals, will add substancial wear to your power train. I've seen guys try that, all makes, you also saw their tractors at dealers with rear end open. For me, my heavy loads were PTO loads, I was working soils very subject to compaction. However so were we all, tire shop near here tells me in the 1970s it was all the weight you could pile on tractor. Today it's keep tractor light as you can and add rubber, duals, even triples front and rear. First set of tires on my 1066 singles with chloride, lasted 1,000 hours Same tire dualed and no chloride 9,000 hours. That is precisely why I say every thing over 100 hp should be articulated and dualed. Getting maximum pull out of a tractor only counts at tractor pulls. it really has nothing to do with making money. I alway found keeping them away from repair shop made money. Only you know your goals, thus you can gear up for them. By the way, You soon get used to the width, once you've run down a few gate posts. Duals greatly increase stability with a loader.
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