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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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md engine in 560

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wegman in Mn

11-20-2006 15:24:19




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I think that the 560 engine over powers the transmision and a md engine looks better in my opinion. would a md engine fit on a 560 I personal think it would make a good fit.




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wegman in Mn

11-20-2006 19:10:43




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 Re: md engine in 560 in reply to wegman in Mn, 11-20-2006 15:24:19  
Well if the 450 engine was same as md than yes. thaks everyone for your replies and imputs!



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Janicholson

11-21-2006 12:02:24




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 Re: md engine in 560 in reply to wegman in Mn, 11-20-2006 19:10:43  
The 450 is not identical to an MD engine. It is in the same family and bolts up to the same housings. The super MD, SMDTA, and 400 were inbetween, and displacement was changed along with other things. There will be plenty of incidental components to challenge you as it takes shape. JimN



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the tractor vet

11-20-2006 19:01:33




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 Re: md engine in 560 in reply to wegman in Mn, 11-20-2006 15:24:19  
Well back when they were new the first batch had a small problem and l,ike said before they were updated and around here most people added a charger for MORE power and one guy put a 549 V8 in his and ran it for many years and drug a 18 foot fold disk around the humps and bump south of me and the humps and bump get bigger the further south ya go . So 85-95 Hp . never hurt them and who knows how much that big V8 was maken those boys also had 472 caddy engines in there M's and run the bag off them and never had a problem and there repower work is stricky BARNYARD ENGENEERING .

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randy hall

11-20-2006 18:34:04




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 Re: md engine in 560 in reply to wegman in Mn, 11-20-2006 15:24:19  
if there is no such thing as a stupid question this one is really pushing the limit. if you only want forty horse out of your 560 turn the pump down to that setting.



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K.B.-826

11-20-2006 16:23:45




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 Re: md engine in 560 in reply to wegman in Mn, 11-20-2006 15:24:19  
It will bolt up to the clutch housing. That would be the only easy part. You"d need to build the starting/fuel control linkage, you"d have to get the radiator hoses connected, you"d have to come up with a location for the starting tank, you"d need to modify the hood for the exhaust pipe, and run fuel lines. Then you"d have to get the frame rails bolted to the engine. Seriously, the 560 rear end is not all that weak. The first ones did have problems, but they were updated. I would be more concerned about the reliability of the gas-start diesel engine than I would be about the 560 rear end. Those engines were very sensitive to abuse, many cylinder heads were cracked because the operator was just not patient enough to let the engine cool down for a few minutes before shutdown.

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Wardner

11-20-2006 16:11:40




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 Re: md engine in 560 in reply to wegman in Mn, 11-20-2006 15:24:19  
Is your name Corrigan? I think you are going the wrong way.

Wouldn't a UD14 look more than twice as good. Twice the power too. And it will turn heads. I assume that is what you are after.



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steelfronts

11-20-2006 18:46:58




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 Re: md engine in 560 in reply to Wardner, 11-20-2006 16:11:40  
Wardner wouldnt that be like trying to put 10lbs of s--- in a 5lb sack?



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P and R Pete

03-07-2009 07:12:20




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 Re: Engine Overhaul in reply to ADLM, 03-06-2009 20:45:58  
ADLM, I considered myself a novice, and I pulled it off. I used the IH Service Manual, the I&T Shop Manual, and a parts manual, all of which I got from BinderBooks. That said, I don"t think they would have sufficed for ME without the help of those other guys and this forum. But that"s just me. I asked a bazillion questions, and patiently awaited answers before proceeding. If you"re quick to anger and bull-headed, ya might run into problems!

I can"t tell you how heavy the engine is, but an engine stand is necessary, as was a "cherry-picker" for removing the engine from the tractor. Not good to risk bending critical parts by trying to "muscle" off the engine. I could lift the block, no problem, but only after the head, crank, and flywheel were off.

I"ve assumed you"ve used wrenches and sockets before. You think that you have that "mechanic"s feel", that sense of how hard to torque a nut without risking breaking a stud? Nothing to ruin your day like breaking things. Have a torque wrench? You HAVE to have one, for the engine internals. Even then, the manuals don"t say a lot about how much torque to use beyond the rod and main caps, and flywheel.

You have a place to do this indoors? Can you be meticulous with cleanliness when putting it back together, and methodical with laying things out, labeling nuts and bolts, doing things in proper order, taking notes? Many things have to go back exactly from where they came, lifters, connecting rods, etc. Can"t just pile things on a table.

Are you prepared for some expense? You can probably expect some unforeseen problems. I had to buy a new-used crank, ($125), and the machine shop work on the block, head, crank, and connecting rods was several hundreds, plus $300 for the engine kit.

And are you prepared for a good bit of frustration? You can expect to run into hassles, stuck bolts, broken parts, tools you can"t find beg or borrow, etc. I got angry, frustrated, disgusted, despairing, and that was just getting the main pulley off. It"ll be a journey!

If none of this gets you going, and you can do without your tractor for awhile this time of year, hey, why not. Engines don"t get any simpler.
It"s gotta be your call though. I"d feel bad if you tackled it on my advice, and got lost halfway through. And I"d sure like to hear that you have some knowledgable help somewhere down your road, if you need it!

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Nebraska Cowman

12-31-2009 07:41:50




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 Re: Farmall regular main bearing play in reply to ScottyHOMEy, 12-30-2009 18:47:32  
The only thing I can find is in an old "Motors" manual. It states, "If the play seems excessive in either direction the bearings must be renewed" I'm guessing that with that much play it would knock under load. Just to run slow with no load you might get away with it.



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