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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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M Or Super M

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Likes The Farm

11-06-2006 06:16:08




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Farm little bit on small scale. Mostly soybeans. Use a 140 for most my work. When retire probably farm little more. Like to 140 and can handle most my work with that. But would like to get bigger tractor. Had considered several 3020 5000 etc. However, have about decided I could spend less and maybe get an M or Super M with the hydraulics couplers and would come out cheaper would be nice to have something little larger to disk with. At auction past weekend and saw an M good shape with single hydraulic hose go for 3100 in good shape. Have never run tractor with hydraulics couplers so I assume some are single coupler setups some double. Assume with M I described you would plug hose from the unit on the disk into the coupler and it would raise and lower. Am I correct? Suppose later when do retire and farm little larger could resale the tractor and upgrade again. I have understood that he M and Super M's are tough machines though I've never actually done much work with one. Spent most my time on a 140 or 3000 ford when we tended about 40ac tobacco. Do you reckon my thinking is right on this? And if so what do I need to look at before seeing about buying one. I would prefer a Super M though they are little harder to come by. What are the major wear areas etc? Appreciate thoughts from those you who know more than me. Thanks.

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LenRahilly

11-06-2006 13:32:52




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 Re: M Or Super M in reply to Likes The Farm, 11-06-2006 06:16:08  
Previous comments are right on. The hydraulics on H and M are not "live," and that is a disadvantage under certain conditions. The clutch must be engaged for the pump to run. Approaching a fence while cultivating corn, you pretty much had to stop, shift to neutral, engage the clutch, raise the implement, shift back into gear and make your turn. This might not be a problem where there is plenty of room to make the turn, such as in an open field where you are disking.
I spent a good 20 years helping my father on his farm with 2 H's. They are lovely to drive, at least in comparison with what preceded them (F-20, a real bucking bronco), but a little underpowered for what was claimed for them ("full two-plow tractor," said the IHC propaganda; maybe true, but you could rarely get the H out of second gear (about 3.5 mph), even with 2 12's; same story with the 7-foot double disc, which the F-20 on 36" rubber would yank around in second or third (about 4 and 4.5 mph).
Never farmed with an M or Super M, but a few years ago a relative bought a Super M for bushhogging, and I got to use it enough to develop a feel for this tractor. It has a torquey engine, and in an open field it was as easy to drive as an H. BUT, for the kind of maneuvering that was sometimes required when using the bushhog, I found the Super M to be a bit clumsy. No power steering, and the extra weight of the tractor compared to the H made the steering definitely stiff, especially at the low speeds you sometimes use in this maneuvering. My father's H was just barely able to handle a 5' bushhog in heavy going, but the Super M made light work of this same machine.There IS a feeling of being on top of the world when you are sitting up there looking out over that big macho hood and listening to the throaty roar of that husky engine.
I was just starting to drive tractors when the H and M came out, and I remember thinking that they were the most beautiful machines ever built. I still think that the lines are exquisite, especially the overall balance in the design of the H (the M would have to be a bit longer to have this balance in its appearance). I WAS disappointed with the power of the H when my father bought one in the early 50s; I had been driving an F-20 on rubber--a brute to ride on, but lots of torque compared to the H.
A strange problem: the clutch pedal on M and Super M is pretty far out to the left because of the very wide transmission and platform. The driver is always exerting pressure both forward and outward. After a good many years, the result can be a very sloppy clutch pedal that encourages the driver's foot to slip off. I think that a machine shop can fix this with a bushing, but don't have experience myself with this repair. Other contributors may want to comment on this.
Overall, both the H and M were very well made, and I don't know of any specific mechanical weaknesses. Others may have something to say here, too.
An aside: I knew a fruit-and-vegetable farmer who bought only tractors like the Super A, Super H, Super M, late John Deere A and B, and so on, because they were cheap to buy. He had them fixed up and maintained by a local mechanic, and apparently found them to be a very economical way to mechanize his operation. This fellow really knew what he was doing, so I assume that his use of the older machines saved him money.

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Tim Kleese

11-06-2006 12:08:19




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 Re: M Or Super M in reply to Likes The Farm, 11-06-2006 06:16:08  
I've got a real strong M for sale. It runs real good. I need a new starter, but all in all, it would run a Gehl 95 mix-mill with no problem. I'm asking $1100 for it. I will need a paint job, but mechanically it's great.



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dhermesc

11-06-2006 09:01:26




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 Re: M Or Super M in reply to Likes The Farm, 11-06-2006 06:16:08  
"Assume with M I described you would plug hose from the unit on the disk into the coupler and it would raise and lower. Am I correct?"

----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ---

A "M" (or "H") has "one way" hydraulics. You could use it on a disk with a single hose and it would lift the disk ("power up") and when you pushed the handle all the way forward the weight of the disk would push the cylinder closed and the hydraulic oil would run back into the tractor. With the handle all the way forward the the cylinder would "float" as the wheels of the disk hit bumps and terraces the cylinder would continue to open and close with no (or little) resistance. On a H or M the lift only works when the clutch is out with the tractor moving in gear or when stopped with the transmission in neutral. It will lower with the clutch in any position.

With "two way" hydraulics you have both "power up" and "power down". In this situation you could lift the disk and then lower the disk and lift the wheels completely off the ground. For two way hydraulics you would need to move up to at least a Super M/H with the live hydraulic option (it was an option) or an older unit that has been modified. The hydraulics operate independant of the position of the clutch.

I don't know about your location but that M would have needed to be in exceptional condition (overhaul, new tires, new paint) to bring that in my area, or had relatives bidding on it.

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voager213

11-06-2006 07:43:47




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 Re: M Or Super M in reply to Likes The Farm, 11-06-2006 06:16:08  
ever consider an H or a super H cheaper and the super h has live hydros



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Dr.EVIL

11-07-2006 11:19:38




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 Re: M Or Super M in reply to voager213, 11-06-2006 07:43:47  
Stage I Super H's sell for about the same $$$ as an M around here and are not near the tractor, Only Stage II Super H's had live hyd. avail. so roughly two-thirds still had the Lift-all belly pump. M&W made live hyd. kits for H's & M's. Dad's '51 M had it installed in about 1961. Much more psi & volume for loader work compared to My Stage II Super H.



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Janicholson

11-06-2006 06:48:52




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 Re: M Or Super M in reply to Likes The Farm, 11-06-2006 06:16:08  
A 400 or 450 is the ticket here. live hydro, TA, simple, live pto, and ~ the same price as a good M or SM. Much less $ than a SMTA. And more tractor. It is the working tractor value of the 30-55 Hp category. JimN



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Likes The Farm

11-06-2006 06:40:15




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 Re: M Or Super M in reply to Likes The Farm, 11-06-2006 06:16:08  
Yep I thought it was little high myself. Was in top shape though.



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Steve from mo - dangit!

11-06-2006 06:30:10




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 Nice big old tractor. in reply to Likes The Farm, 11-06-2006 06:16:08  
The M was built from 1939-1951 and Super M in 1952 and 1953. SMTA one year only in 1954. 400 and 450 (and SMTA) had same basics plus two-way live hydraulic, live power.

Most parts of the country you should be able to buy a good M under $2,000. $3100 ought to buy a fancy plain M.



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