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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Update on Burnt Valve

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Steve200460

10-30-2006 15:33:12




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Thanks to all. It turned out to be at least 3 things. Points needed set. Ignition switch finally quit, so probably was weak beforeit quit. Both the wire from the ignition switch and the one coming from the starter solenoid were connected to the ballast resisitor. Once all were fixed, it started fine. I checked the valve lash and it is okay but no increase in compression. Now I get to decide if I want to ignore the lower compression on the one cylinder or pull the head and do a valve job. Any opinions?

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FarmallBob

10-30-2006 17:40:54




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 Re: Update on Burnt Valve in reply to Steve200460, 10-30-2006 15:33:12  
Steve, I had some serious trouble with my Farmall Super C. Thinking that all the hard work gone into rebuilding that engine had to be done over again. Not realizing two things, one was changing the governor and the other was changing the carb. It was bad, smoke and oil would come out of the valve cover vent, the exhaust was fouling the plugs, and it just wouldn't run with any power at all. Left it in the woods two years, as I used my Farmall C work tractor. This fall got it into the garage and worked on it replacing carb and governor. It works great, but believe the head will need to come off one more time as there is a slow leak in middle of haed gasket.
Bob

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Janicholson

10-30-2006 17:08:21




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 Re: Update on Burnt Valve in reply to Steve200460, 10-30-2006 15:33:12  
A cylinderleak down test is a good analytical next step. One closes the valves by having the cylinder on tdc compression nad locking it in that location with a combination of being in high gear, locked brakes, and possibly a wrench on the front pulley nut to hold it from turning. Then apply air pressure to the cylinder with a used sparkplug with a fitting brazed into the place where the porcelin was located. This air pressure (100psi or so) will leak out of the same spot that the compression leaks during running. One listens to the intake at the carb (with air cleaner removed), to the exhaust in the muffler, and in the oil fill hole. The hissing will reveal the location. I believe an engine that is not using major oil (smoking blue grey) and seems tight will run well with out replacing the rings etc. If it does, all you have lost is some time and a head gasket, If it doesn't you have saved a bunch of money and time. My two cents, JimN

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old

10-30-2006 15:56:36




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 Re: Update on Burnt Valve in reply to Steve200460, 10-30-2006 15:33:12  
If you do a valve job you might as well do the rings, rods and main at the same time or it will blow the rings out the bottom of the engine since all parts wear at about the same rate



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