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Update on 1950 Cub charging

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glen kaiser

10-25-2006 05:40:47




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Hi John T, Just an update. Still not charging, I have motor tested my generator by hooking hot battery to ARM post and grounding my field post with the belt off. My generator does run with a little squeal and when I disconnect the ground it slows down, but keeps running. Should it speed up with the ground removed? I am going to replace the voltage regulator but wondering if my generator is in need of repair also. This is on a 1950 Cub. Thanks

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john *.?-!.* cub owner

10-25-2006 20:43:27




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 Re: Update on 1950 Cub charging in reply to glen kaiser, 10-25-2006 05:40:47  
Glen, check the link below.



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john *.?-!.* cub owner

10-25-2006 20:44:17




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 Re: Update on 1950 Cub charging in reply to john *.?-!.* cub owner, 10-25-2006 20:43:27  
Link ddint' post, so copy and paste
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Maintenance%20Tips%20and%20Techniques/Generator%20and%20Regulator%20Troubleshooting%20Flow%20Chart.jpg



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John T

10-25-2006 06:53:07




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 Re: Update on 1950 Cub charging in reply to glen kaiser, 10-25-2006 05:40:47  
Glen,

I totally agree with Bob M..... YES when motor testing a genny it should run somewhat faster with the Field post disconnected from ground, and if not I also suspect theres a field winding problem in the genny. If it motors fairly fast n smooth n even that means the armature and brushes are in somewhat "decent" shape at least.

If the armature and/or brushes were removed so the armature n ground circuit is out of the equation, you could take an ohmmeter and insure the two field windings are continuous from the ARM post to the FIELD post (if a 2 brush genny) which would be in the vicinity of a few (maybe 2 to under 10, depends on if 6 or 12 volt) ohms and then insure neither field winding is shorted to the case cuz there should be an open circuit (very high ohms) from either genny post to its case UNLESS one of the field windings is shorted to case.

Another place where field windings can go bad is where the two are spliced together cuz the splice can get broke or else one of the windings get shorted to the case.

Remember with the tractor running if the field is dead grounded and then the cutout relay portion of a VR or stand alone 2 wire Cutout Relay is by pass jumped (BAT and GEN/ARM terminals connected together) the VR is out of the equation, so if still no charge and all else is okay its a Genny NOT any VR problem.

That buzz or whine could be brushes like Bob was talking about which can happen if the commutator gets rough and/or the copper is worn down and the insulators arent undercut causing brush bounce or maybe a bushing is dry or a bearing is going bad?????

Bob M,

NO apologies due me, as far as multiple answers I think it helps the questioner to get more then one opinion as each may explain the issue slightly different and the more the merrier, after all were here to help by providign alllll l the info we can muster up. I consider you as the IHC ELECTRICAL GURU especially since I havent used Farmalls in years but Ive still "been around the electrical block" a few times and stand knee deep enough in theory to help on electrical questions best I can so its good we can help "keep each other honest" time to time lol.

Yall take care now

John T (NOT an IHC man but love lectricity)

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glen kaiser

10-25-2006 16:11:42




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 Re: Update on 1950 Cub charging in reply to John T, 10-25-2006 06:53:07  
GREAT NEWS the genny is rebuilt and a new VR and I have 20 amps charging on the ammeter. I didn't test with a voltmeter yet, but I have charge!



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glen kaiser

10-25-2006 16:14:55




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 Re: Update on 1950 Cub charging in reply to glen kaiser, 10-25-2006 16:11:42  
I mean 10 amps



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Bob M

10-25-2006 06:21:46




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 Re: Update on 1950 Cub charging in reply to glen kaiser, 10-25-2006 05:40:47  
Glen - When motoring a generator from a battery RPM's should INCREASE when the ground to the F terminal is disconnected. So I'd be suspecting your problem is the generator.

Also the brushes will make a slight buzzing sound as they rub on the commutator. However a noticable squeal can mean broken or worn out brushes. Also perhaps a worn out bushing (commutator end) or ball bearing (pulley end).

----

John T: My apologies for jumping ahead of you here!!

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