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Crank Pulley Revisited

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Mike Frost

10-18-2006 19:11:45

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Ok guys, I know that there are pleny of other archives about installing crank pulleys, bu this sucker is being stubborn. I first put it in the oven at 400 for about half an hour, didn;t work, so now I lubed the heck out of it, didn"t work. I tried using a torch, didn"t work, I put a piece of threaded rod int o crank to pull on, but I can"t hold crank enough w/strap wrench, and finally I cut a notch into a 2x4 and tried heating and beating.I got it on about 3/4 of the way so I don"t think the keyway is binding, This bugger is whooping me. PLEASE HELP!!!!

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Larry Kosin

10-19-2006 09:48:25

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to Mike Frost, 10-18-2006 19:11:45

I did this about 3 months ago on a Farmall 100 C-123 Engine.

Heated pulley in oven at 275 for about 3 hours (didn't want to cook the new seal).
Iced shaft.
Thoroughly greased the seal
Silicone lubed the shaft and inside of pulley.
Pulled about 80% of the way on with a threaded rod.
Rod snapped.
Drove on the rest of the way with a 3 pound brass hammer.

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scotty

10-19-2006 06:31:34

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to Mike Frost, 10-18-2006 19:11:45

Mornin Mike, OK, this is what I did. I use a flap wheel in the crank pulley bore and opened it up so I had at most a half thousanth interference fit on the crank. Maybe just slightly less ! I then drilled and tapped the crank pulley centered in the woodruff keyway, 1/4"-20. It was just a light tap of the pulley to position it on the crank and then tighten up your setscrew. If your worried about the setscrew backing out use a nylock! Mine works fine. To do all this you need to know how to use a telescoping gage for the bore and know how to read a micrometer.

To heat that pulley up hot is looking for trouble IMHO, because its going to damage the seal in the timing cover !

scotty

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Red Dave

10-19-2006 09:48:08

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to scotty, 10-19-2006 06:31:34

I've done exactly what scotty describes and it worked fine. I made mine about a half a thousanth interferance fit, heated it up to about 200 degF and tapped it on. I drilled the side of mine to put a setscrew in it so it won't come loose.

They key here is that you have to know where you are at as far as the fit goes. That means that you have to be able to use a micrometer on the crank and a bore gage on the pulley. Otherwise you are flying blind.

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Keith-OR

10-18-2006 22:16:12

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to Mike Frost, 10-18-2006 19:11:45

What tractor engine are you trying to put the crank pulley back on?

Need more info.

Keith & Shawn

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Janicholson

10-18-2006 19:58:28

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to Mike Frost, 10-18-2006 19:11:45

It should pull on with threaded rod. If it will not, (and it is apparent that it will not) Use a break cylinder hone to clean up the bore of the pulley, OR make a flap wheel by slitting a 1/2" wood dowel with a hacksaw about 1" and inserting one or more 12"X1" strips of 180 grit silicon carbide paper in the slit. You may need to add some strips of tagboard filler between wraps to get it fat enough to work the abrasive, if it is loose it will take forever. Put this in a drill and polish out the inside of the pulley (especially the last 1/2 of it) Put a lot of motion in and out on the drill to keep the action uniform. Keep measuring it (or trying it) until it has a .001" interference fit it should go on then with lube. Others have polished until it is a light tapping on fit with a board and drilled and tapped a setscrew into the body of the pulley and a corrisponding pointed recess in the crank to keep it on. Good luck, they can be a Booger, JimN

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gene bender

10-19-2006 02:27:50

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to Janicholson, 10-18-2006 19:58:28

So whats going to happen with the brake hone when it hits the key slot.

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Janicholson

10-19-2006 05:21:22

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to gene bender, 10-19-2006 02:27:50

Two possible successes, one no contest:
The first is that the hones I've got in my kit have wide enough stones to bridge the groove.
The second is the use of a bead style hone.
And I would hope that my alternative would provide a solution for the mainstream that have no hone. or who's hone has thin stones/abrasive. Your point is well taken, I should have discussed it clearly. JimN

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K.B.-826

10-18-2006 19:48:14

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to Mike Frost, 10-18-2006 19:11:45

Go over the end of the crankshaft and the inside of the pulley with some emery cloth. Half hour at 400 in the oven probably wasn't enough. That iron takes a long time to soak up the heat. Put it back in for several hours. Once you've got it started onto the shaft, heating with the torch is not a good idea. There's a good chance you'll cook the seal, and the shaft will also take on heat and expand. Something has to be wrong here, that pulley should not fight. Do some measuring and make sure the end of the crankshaft isn't mushroomed or the inside of the pulley isn't somehow goofed up.

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10-18-2006 19:25:04

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to Mike Frost, 10-18-2006 19:11:45

Hmmmmm..... ...Try heating the pulley in oil. While that is cooking, wrap an ice pack around the shaft. I like the threaded rod idea, I have had success with that method. If that does not work, try it without the key in to see if that is not the problem. You don"t want it so hot that you damage the seal.

Good luck.

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Patrick Martin

10-19-2006 20:02:41

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Re: Crank Pulley Revisited in reply to EZ, 10-18-2006 19:25:04

HEY! I just did this!

What I did is I bead blasted the inside of the pulley and drove it on with a 3lb sledge and 4"X4" block of wood. A total of three hits. bump, Bump, BUMP,,,,, on it went! :)

I think if you bead blast it, it will remove juuuuust enough to allow a good snug fit.

be sure to use a bearing separator like shown in the manual or some other sort of backup behind the pulley to keep from breaking it on removal.

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