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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Voltage Regulator... the saga continues.

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Matt Williams

10-10-2006 18:17:58




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So I got it hooked up just as everyone said. It just so happens that it is the same way it was hooked up back when it was working before I had the short that melted the wires on the battery terminal on the voltage regulator.
Since then I have replaced the wires, checked the inside of the VR, looks good. Polarized the VR and replaced the ignition switch. When I turn the key in the ignition it doesn"t do anything. With the key on the VR has 6 volts to all three terminals.
It won"t turn over unless I ground the pole that goes to the solenoid on the starter. When I do that it turns over but I don"t get any spark to the plugs.
Is there some way to test the VR and the Generator without taking them in? It has to be one of those components, I guess?
I would think that the VR is bad as it had the wires on the BAT terminal fried, I don"t see any obvious signs of mechanical failure in it though.
Where would you get one of these most affordably?
Thanks again for your help! I have a 53 IH 300 U.

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tasbrus

10-11-2006 05:31:04




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 Re: Voltage Regulator... the saga continues. in reply to Matt Williams, 10-10-2006 18:17:58  
Sounds like you have several problems. As someone in the other post said, you should have spark even without the VR hooked up. Use a test light and make sure you have power at the coil with the switch on. Maybe the switch is wired wrong. If you need to get this thing running you can try running a jumper wire directly from the battery hot side (could be +or- depending on your system) to the coil (the post not going to the points). This will be the same as the switch turned on so now if you spin the motor over you should get spark at the plugs. Note: Jumper wire should be fused but I would just use a wire with clips cuz I like living on the edge. :)

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John T

10-10-2006 20:14:33




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 Re: Voltage Regulator... the saga continues. in reply to Matt Williams, 10-10-2006 18:17:58  
Matt, If alllll llll 3 terminals on that VR are reading hot battery voltage when shes not running as you indicate "with the key on" you got a serious VR problem, get a new one.

Not running the ONLY VR terminal that should show hot battery voltage is the BAT terminal since it wires to the load (NOT to battery/starter) side of the ammeter. The VR"s ARM terminal wires to the Gennys Arm post and it shouldnt be showing any voltage not running cuz the cutout relay (relay between BAT and ARM on VR) should be open and the gennys not running to produce any voltage out its ARM post. The VR"s FLD post shouldnt be showing any battery voltage, its like a near dead short to ground.

PS Its the Genny, NOT the VR that gets polarized.

You asked how to test for a genny or a VR problem, heres how to determine which is at fault if shes not charging plus how to Motor Test the genny itslef to see if its good...

TO DETERMINE IF ITS A GEN OR VR OR CUTOUT RELAY PROBLEM

5. a) VOLTAGE REGULATOR SYSTEM: With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then but NOT otherwise, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR"s Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isn’t well grounded.

b) IF IT’S A CUTOUT RELAY SYSTEM and she charges only if you dead ground the Field but NOT otherwise, its either a bad switch or the switch isn’t well grounded or else the wires bad or open from the Gens Field post up to the switch. INSURE THAT GOOD SWITCH GROUND AND WIRING

6. If she still don’t charge, leave the Field grounded and jump a wire across from the VR or Cutout Relays BAT terminal over to its GEN terminal (jump by passes the cutout relay) and see if she charges. If then but not otherwise, a VR"s cutout relay isn’t working correct (maybe points burned/carboned) or a Cutout Relays NOT working or not wired correct.

7. With the 2 steps above, you have basically by passed the VR or Cutout relays functions, so if she still don’t charge, you"re left with a bad battery or wiring or the Gen itself.

8. MOTOR TEST. You can Motor test the Gen. If its grounded and you remove the belt and apply hot battery voltage direct to its ARM Post and have the Field Post dead grounded to frame, it should motor n run well (Armature n Brushes and Commutator likely okay). Then, if you next remove the Fields ground and it speeds up some, the Fields probably good. If it passes both those tests, it should charge, and if not, it may be a wiring or battery or grounding problem. The hot battery voltage may be taken off the VR"s BAT terminal or the starter post or the battery itself for this test.

John T

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Janicholson

10-10-2006 18:43:47




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 Re: Voltage Regulator... the saga continues. in reply to Matt Williams, 10-10-2006 18:17:58  
Here is my best info.
At the back of the AMP meter there are two terminals. One terminal has #10 wire that goes to the starter area and connects to the big terminal that connects with a Big battery cable to the negative battery terminal. This wire supplies all the systems with power except the starter motor. The other side of the AMP meter has several wires connected, one to the light switch through a fuse, one (heavy) to the Bat terminal on the VR, and one to the Ignition Switch.
All power thus flows through the AMP meter, except the starter heavy current.
The starter button (yours may have a key switch instead with a start terminal) has a wire that goes to the solenoid small S terminal. This wire is what gives the solenoid the signal to close making the starter turn. (by the way, if you jumped between the negative terminal from the battery to this small terminal to make the starter spin, it is not grounding it, it is jumping. Grounding things that are on the negative side of the battery is smoke city.
There should be battery voltage at the ignition coil from the key switch. It should be connected to the - side of the coil, This is the side not connected to the distributor.
Your regulator may be toast. Looking good, is different than having 6 volts every where. See John Ts trouble shooting notes down the page, or from archives. they are finest kind. Disconnect the regulator at the BAT terminal before making any more atttempts to start the tractor. By doing so you will eliminate issues from the running and ignition problems. NAPA is a reasonable source for components. Good luck, and keep us informed. JimN

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