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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Exhaust Manifold - Somewhat OT

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Michael Sheik

09-20-2006 04:55:07




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I recently acquired a Hesston 420 swather. It is self propelled, mid 70's and most likely has set out its entire life from the looks of it. Runs great but the exhaust mainfold is cracked (1/8 to 1/4 gaps) in 4 or 5 places. I have another good one on a parts machine. I attempted to loosen some of the bolts/nuts last night but due to age, weather and who knows what, they are all rock solid. Surely someone has had this same problem on old tractor restoration and has some secrets or tricks to get these things to budge. I am eager for suggestions.

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glennster

09-20-2006 10:24:31




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 Re: Exhaust Manifold - Somewhat OT in reply to Michael Sheik, 09-20-2006 04:55:07  
you could try a high speed grinder with a cut off wheel, thin one. slice into the bolt like you will make a flat screwdriver slot. go thru the nut to the edge of the manifold. use a punch or chisel to split the two halves of the nut off. this will leave some of the stud sticking out of the head. you can use a stud puller on it to get the rest out. soak it up good with pb blaster or similiar product.

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Michael Sheik

09-20-2006 10:22:46




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 Re: Exhaust Manifold - Somewhat OT in reply to Michael Sheik, 09-20-2006 04:55:07  
I had another thought. Due to the location of some of the nuts on this manifold, I was thinking what if you use an impact chisel to split the nut or at least spread it a little. That way the nuts could be spun off. Once you have all the nuts and bolts out, you could pull the manifold and there would be your studs easy to get to with vise grip or whatever. I think I'll try that tonight on the nuts. I'll try your other suggestions on the bolts and see what happens.

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Bill46

09-20-2006 09:28:32




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 Re: Exhaust Manifold - Somewhat OT in reply to Michael Sheik, 09-20-2006 04:55:07  
On the ones I can get to, I usally take a 2" piece of flat metal, drill a 3/8" hole in it and lay it aganist the nut or bolt. Use an arc welder as it helps knock the rust off inside where the threads are.
When everything cools off...bend the metal a little...maybe 15 degrees for a little off set...once it moves...spin the bolt right out.
Did all the fender bolts this way trying to remove the broken fender bolts from a 450D. They had been broken off for years when dad took the fenders off.
The things came right out.

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rumplestiltskin

09-20-2006 09:27:57




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 Re: Exhaust Manifold - Somewhat OT in reply to Michael Sheik, 09-20-2006 04:55:07  

I've had a lot of luck with candle wax. Just heat the fastener and apply the wax to any joints. It usually seems to penetrate nicely. It works extremely well on splined shafts.

I'm considering starting to use wax for reassembly, too. It will seal out dust, dirt, and air and thus should prevent rust on the threads.

Mark W. in MI



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Andy Martin

09-20-2006 05:28:32




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 Re: Exhaust Manifold - Somewhat OT in reply to Michael Sheik, 09-20-2006 04:55:07  
First, try it while the engine is hot. They may be easier then.

Otherwise I soak them with a penetrating oil for a few days and then twist them off if they won't come. Then weld nuts on the studs and back them out. It works every time although I had an M recently that the stud came out hard all the way and I had to weld four different nuts on it. that is the exception, the stud was too long and had been bottomed out so the end threads were damaged.

An alternate method is to cut or split the nuts to attempt to save the studs but if the stud is about corroded into anyway you waste a lot of time getting the nut off and still have to pull the stud.

Also, I have noticed if you heat a joint red after you have penetrating oil in it you may burn the oil and make the joint tighter again. I did this on a big turnbuckle once that I had coming apart as it was cooling but I let it sit a few days and it was frozen again when I got back to it. More heat did not help and it really froze up tight.

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Michael Sheik

09-20-2006 05:49:18




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 Re: Exhaust Manifold - Somewhat OT in reply to Andy Martin, 09-20-2006 05:28:32  
Would it do any good to use a punch and hammer to hit the head of the bolt or nut while the engine was hot to attempt to break some of the rust,etc that is between manifold casting and stud. What about using an impact which has a hammering effect to remove them.
My biggest fear is if I break a bolt or stud off flush with cylinder head.



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Andy Martin

09-20-2006 09:23:46




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 Re: Exhaust Manifold - Somewhat OT in reply to Michael Sheik, 09-20-2006 05:49:18  
Hitting the nut is fine, but I'd be careful hitting the bolt as you may peen the end over and prevent the nut from coming off.

Breaking off flush is not a problem because it is just as easy to weld a nut to a flush stud and the weld metal will not stick to the casting. The worst you get is a little cast metal loss around the hole and usually don't even get that.



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