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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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shifting properly

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Young and dumb

09-12-2006 20:09:00




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Hello gang. I am not new to IH tractors but never drive them on the road until recently. Driving a 1466, is there a secret to meshing gears without grinding. I realize its not synchronized like my truck but I feel like a moron grinding gears so much plus I don't like tranny wear. (maybe a foot-petal throttle option helps a guy)

Also, does the 5 spd. in Farmalls shift so hard?




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scotc

09-13-2006 18:28:51




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 Re: shifting properly in reply to Young and dumb, 09-12-2006 20:09:00  
With the SM and 400, and the H and 300 we had, WOT in 4th, out of gear as I backed off the throttle, when it hit bout as low an rpm as it would keep running it would usually slip right into 5th. Both 10"s, the 786, 756, once i got the hang of where to put the throttle to shift with the clutch it was easy to slide it right on out to the next gear without it. The one 1066 was someone"s old puller (big turbo and tons o"horsies) I could bang it out from h2 to h4 and barely leave a blank spot in my smoke trail.

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Allan In NE

09-13-2006 05:53:17




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 Re: shifting properly in reply to Young and dumb, 09-12-2006 20:09:00  
Hi Young Feller,

If your getting "grinding of the gears" on your 1466, I'd guess you need to adjust the clutch, T/A dump and the tranny brake.

If these things are adjusted correctly, 1 thru 4 will "feel" just like your syncronized pickup tranny and won't grind a bit. The key is not to force the shift; let it drop in when it will drop in. Takes about a second between gears.

Allan



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Young and Dumb

09-13-2006 05:41:24




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 Re: shifting properly in reply to Young and dumb, 09-12-2006 20:09:00  
THanks for the help everyone. Now I don't feel quite as stupid.



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P Backus

09-13-2006 05:24:30




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 Re: shifting properly in reply to Young and dumb, 09-12-2006 20:09:00  
What Hugh says is pretty much true (as always), but I have a 4166 that gets used a lot hauling a semi tank full of manure down the road with the total weight being around 55,000 lbs, so there is no way it can start that out in anything but 2nd gear, high range- usually 1st. The shifting pattern is like an 06 series with all the gears in a row, so I have to go through all of them. So, the point is, it can be shifted well without clashing. Because I use it on the road so much I built a foot throttle to help. With a bit of practice it can be shifted without the clutch, with no grinding, just like a semi tractor. Thus no wear on the transmission brake. It is tougher with just a hand throttle though. I usually do that with the left hand on the throttle and the right hand shifting (who"s steering? oh well). My Farmall are the same principle shifting between 4th and 5th, but you must slow down the engine during the shift.
Paul

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Hugh MacKay again

09-13-2006 03:05:06




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 Re: shifting properly in reply to Young and dumb, 09-12-2006 20:09:00  
Young: You indeed can call me old and dumb. You see I forgot whether I pushed the send button. I cant drive a computer any better than I can speed shift a 10 or 1466.



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Hugh MacKay

09-13-2006 02:58:57




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 Re: shifting properly in reply to Young and dumb, 09-12-2006 20:09:00  
Young: I wont call you, and dumb. Shifting those large chasis 66 series tractors on the move into that 4th speed is just not worth the effort. It can be done but you just don't have the same kind of momentum going for you as in a straight gear truck.

The 1066 and 1466 have a transmission brake, hooked to clutch pedal, same idea as highway tractors, therefor you must never push clutch down far enough to apply the brake during shifting, if tractor is moving. Then you must align your engine rpm so it is in perfect sequence with gear your going to. I expect with practice you could get this right, but then you must throw in the factor of grade the tractor is on. These tractors soon stop on upgrade, especially if you happen to push clutch pedal down far enough to apply the transmission brake.

30 years ago I decided it was not worth the effort, even though I was proficient in doing this with highway trucks. Besides a 1066 is quite capable of starting away in 4th, high range and low on TA just about anywhere on hard surface with 10 ton behind it. The 1466 having more hp can only be better. Some upgrades will hamper this with the load behind, but I've never seen a spot were 1066 with 3 ton behind, couldn't start away in 4th, high range and low on TA.

I will also tell you this, shifting TA in those higher gears you should adjust your throttle, to compensate for the gear change. It's all about driveline shock. These are not a Farmall M, they quite often weigh twice as much, yet have no more speed and momentum for on the go shifting.

Another side note, most of these big tractors folks have been speed shifting, have the transmission brake destroyed. It's not designed to stop the tractor, only stop transmission gears from turning after tractor has been idling in neutral. The time you save shifting on the go, most likely be more than used up waiting for the transmission to stop everytime tractor has been idling in neutral with clutch out.

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Hugh MacKay

09-13-2006 02:57:39




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 Re: shifting properly in reply to Young and dumb, 09-12-2006 20:09:00  
Young: I wont call you, and dumb. Shifting those large chasis 66 series tractors on the move into that 4th speed is just not worth the effort. It can be done but you just don't have the same kind of momentum going for you as in a straight gear truck.

The 1066 and 1466 have a transmission brake, hooked to clutch pedal, same idea as highway tractors, therefor you must never push clutch down far enough to apply the brake during shifting, if tractor is moving. Then you must align your engine rpm so it is in perfect sequence with gear your going to. I expect with practice you could get this right, but then you must throw in the factor of grade the tractor is on. These tractors soon stop on upgrade, especially if you happen to push clutch pedal down far enough to apply the transmission brake.

30 years ago I decided it was not worth the effort, even though I was proficient in doing this with highway trucks. Besides a 1066 is quite capable of starting away in 4th, high range and low on TA just about anywhere on hard surface with 10 ton behind it. The 1466 having more hp can only be better. Some upgrades will hamper this with the load behind, but I've never seen a spot were 1066 with 3 ton behind, couldn't start away in 4th, high range and low on TA.

I will also tell you this, shifting TA in those higher gears you should adjust your throttle, to compensate for the gear change. It's all about driveline shock. These are not a Farmall M, they quite often weigh twice as much, yet have no more speed and momentum for on the go shifting.

Another side note, most of these big tractors folks have been speed shifting, have the transmission brake destroyed. It's not designed to stop the tractor, only stop transmission gears from turning after tractor has been idling in neutral. The time you save shifting on the go, most likely be more than used up waiting for the transmission to stop everytime tractor has been idling in neutral with clutch out.

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HENRY E NC

09-12-2006 21:21:23




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 Re: shifting properly in reply to Young and dumb, 09-12-2006 20:09:00  
No , the fith gear is not a hard shift. If you want to shift up from 4 to five and not graind try double cluthing but usually just a pause betwwwwn gears is enough. Also drop the throttle off some while doing this. It workked in the forties and still does on my M now



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