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Hooking up hydraulics for loader on 706 (picture)

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Steve KS

08-29-2006 12:52:30

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I've been trying to figure out how to plumb the hydraulics for a loader on my '63 IH 706. There's only one rear remote, and that runs my 3 pt, so I don't want to tie it up. I've got the side remotes, but the handle that runs those was broken off in a former life. What I'd like to do is just run lines directly to the separate loader control valve and "hard wire" it. In searching the archives, I learned about power beyond ports that were on the 06 models - in the picture, is that what the two 1 1/8" hex heads are in the picture labeled A & B? "A" looks to be some sort of pressure relief valve?, but the loader valve already has one, so would I need this one? "B" is just a plug. I'm guessing A would be the pressure and B would be the return line? If those are the right ports, can anyone tell me what the threads are on them? I took the plug into the local hydraulic parts house and they couldn't match it. Or am I totally off base and is there anywhere else to tie into the hydraulics?

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Nat 2

08-29-2006 13:57:08

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Re: Hooking up hydraulics for loader on 706 (pictu in reply to Steve KS, 08-29-2006 12:52:30

Steve, I second KB's recommendation to fix the second remote lever. You've got the seat off, so you're 90% of the way there.

Notice that the plumbing off one of the valves goes both to the front and the back. One of your valves, the one that still has a lever, controls both the rear ports, and one set of side ports, at the same time. The other set of site ports is controled by the valve with the broken lever.

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K.B.-826

08-29-2006 13:27:39

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Re: Hooking up hydraulics for loader on 706 (pictu in reply to Steve KS, 08-29-2006 12:52:30

One of those is the relief valve, can't remember what the other one is. Don't mess with those. I would recommend fixing that handle for your second remote. That way, you could plug your loader valve into the couplers that valve controls, and just tie that lever back so it's on demand at all times. There may or may not be a plate on the left side of your left remote valve. If there is, you can remove that plate and buy a power beyond plate to bolt on in it's place. Those are usually availible from salvage yards, and I believe some guys are making new ones as well. The power beyond plate will be threaded, so you just screw in hoses and run them to your loader valve. I think those plates sell for around $100.

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Steve KS

08-29-2006 14:18:28

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Re: Hooking up hydraulics for loader on 706 (pictu in reply to K.B.-826, 08-29-2006 13:27:39

Thanks KB & Nat. I thought about fixing/replacing it, but I called a salvage yard and they wanted $400 for a used valve body. How hard is it to fix the one I have? The side that's broken was stuck in the "out" position, so it's pretty well rusted over. Do you think it's easier to fix this one or get a replacement? And I'm assuming either way, I'd have to take this one off, how hard is that to do?

On the remote valve, are you talking about the rectangular body (maybe 2" wide x 4" long x 1" deep) on the back that the remote quick connects run from? I didn't get a picture of that, but I'll look again tonight and see what's on there.

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K.B.-826

08-29-2006 20:22:16

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Re: Hooking up hydraulics for loader on 706 (pictu in reply to Steve KS, 08-29-2006 14:18:28

By remote valve, I mean the actual control valve. The rectangular piece you describe is the check valve for the rear couplers. I didn't realize that your spool is broken. That will require replacement of the whole control valve, as they are machined to fit each other. No, they are not hard to remove. If you do decide to replace it, make sure to get an "open-sided" valve. Thats the type that is used for the inner valve on all 06-66 series IH's with two valves, and also the outer valve on 06's. When you've got an open-sided outer valve, you can bolt the power beyond plate to it. Otherwise, from the factory, it would have just had a cover. "Closed sided" valves came out with the 56 series, and they were used on all tractors with only one valve, and in the outer position on tractors with two valves. These do not have the oil passages cut all of the way through, and do not allow for you to bolt on a power beyond plate. Open sided valves were still used in the inner position on tractors with two factory valves to allow for the outer valve to bolt up. Sound confusing? It is. Just don't get the terms "open-sided valve" and "closed-sided valve" mixed up with "open-centered valve" and "closed-centered valve". That's a common mistake that will lead to more confusion (all older IH's use open-centered hydraulics).

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Steve KS

08-29-2006 20:42:19

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Re: Hooking up hydraulics for loader on 706 (pictu in reply to K.B.-826, 08-29-2006 20:22:16

I don"t know that the spool is actually broken, I think maybe just the handle controlling it is. However, it looks like the handle has been gone for some time, so by now the spool may well be broken or at least too far gone to repair. I guess I just hate to spend that much when I don"t really need that spool for anything if I can find another way to plumb the loader. Unless of course I"m going to hurt something doing it that way, then I"d just have to bite the bullet!

Please forgive my ignorance, but from what I"m gathering the plate that I need to find would be inside the "rails" that the valve itself sits between? If a picture would be easier to describe on, I can take another one.

And my loader control valve is open-centered, so I should be in good shape there. Thanks again for your help!

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Nat 2

08-30-2006 05:13:23

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Re: Hooking up hydraulics for loader on 706 (pictu in reply to Steve KS, 08-29-2006 20:42:19

I believe the power beyond plate Steve's talking about goes on the left side of the valve stack as you're sitting in the seat and facing forward. That may be the most economical and quickest fix here, given that your loader already has the valves on it.

HOWEVER, I am of the "since you've got it apart, you may as well fix it" mentality. If you've got to remove the end plate to replace it with the power beyond plate, you may as well pull that stuck valve and see if there's any fix to it, because it's the next piece in the stack.

If it turns out to be a lost cause, you can always just not put it back in. Put the power beyond plate on the first valve. It'll work just fine.

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Steve KS

08-30-2006 06:47:20

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Re: Hooking up hydraulics for loader on 706 (pictu in reply to Nat 2, 08-30-2006 05:13:23

That's good thinking Nat - thanks, I'll do that. Do you know if there are any "kits" available to fix them? If the rust is just on the surface of the rod, I'm guessing that can just be polished up, but if it's pitted then it's probably shot?

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