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B F: If your just replacing brake bands, and all bearing and seals are in good shape, no need to remove anything but final drive and wheel, and you can remove those all in one piece. Just get yourself, either rent of buy a bottle jack and pallet jack. I like to place opposite tractor rear wheel to the side your working on against something large enough that weight of tractor cant move it, then chain it to that object. Building post or another tractor work fine for this. Using blocking, place bottle jack under transmission or axle extension, depending on which side your going to remove. Jack it high enough so you can place pallet jack, perpendicular to tractor, and under tire of side to be removed. Just let the tire set in cradle effect between pallet jack forks. At this point put wooden wedges in pivot of front axle. Add blocking on pallet jack forks up to final drive both ahead and behind sump on bottom of final drive. Put a ratchet strap over between wheel and final drive, thus anchoring both securly to pallet jack. Then syncronize jacks so both have equal weight. Then unbolt the final drive from tractor. You may have to use pry bar or large screw driver to get final drive started out as there are dowels. To replace brake band you only have roll the pallet jack out about 6". Replace the band and roll the jack putting the final drive back in place. Even if you have to replace bearings or seals within final drive the pallet jack is still very useful, just remove the wheel before you start. The pallet jack works very nice for rolling the final drive out and even more so putting it back in place. Even if you must use brute strength, there is no need to remove, fenders, seat and platform from tractor. No need whatever to remove axle unless it needs bearings or seals. With seals you can see if there are leaks before you start. A jack under the final drive and you can see if axle bearing are tight. Personally, I'd never remove an axle from final drive until it's on the work bench.
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