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Hardening Metal

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MAGMAN

05-22-2006 13:51:22




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How would you go about hardening a piece of sheet metal. I all ready heated it three times red hot and dipped it in oil. Any other sugestions? JON




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billde

05-22-2006 18:51:52




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
Brownell's of Montezuma Ia carries spring steel flat in .032 and .062 thickness. www.brownells.com.
click on metal springs&screws
click on flat spring stock kits



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lee

05-22-2006 18:46:39




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
you need cold rolled annealed spring steel.
1075 or there abouts. It's annealed so it is soft and formable. Make your parts and heat treat them as the guys suggest. Torch may warp the parts too much. You may need to get creative and develop some sort of make shift furnace technique to get these cherry red and I'd try an oil quench.



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billde

05-22-2006 18:37:39




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
Try www.stanleyspring.com they may be able to supply you with stock.



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sde

05-22-2006 18:20:18




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
I opened a book from school that had 20 years of dust on it. To increase the carbon content of a piece of steel you need to pack the parts in a high carbon solid meduim, enclosed in a gastight box, and heated for 6 to 72 hours at roughly 1650*. We used saw dust in our box, and sent it over the the welding shop to use their furnace. Would the banding material from around wooden crates work for you. They are about.03 thick and quite tough.

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Janicholson

05-22-2006 17:49:31




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
Jon, There is no good way to do the task, As others indicate, carbon in the steel is the key. One point of carbon is .01%, or .0001 carbon. Mild non-hardenable steel is between 0 points of carbon, and about 10 points. It is almost pure iron. Low carbon Steel is between 10 points, and 30 points of carbon (SAE-1010) steel is iron with 10 points of carbon. Medium carbon steel has from 30 to 60 points of carbon. High carbon steel is from 60 to a max of 150 points, (equal to 1.5% carbon). Metal working files are made from 120-150 point carbon steel. That high range is as hard as steel can be made to be (assuming no other alloys are added, which is a whole other ball game and not in this discussion). Hardening is possible above 10 point, but not very hard, till the upper 50 point area is reached. Hardening requires some individual experimentation on the material to get it as hard as needed with out making it brittle. Brine quenching, water quenching, oil quenching, and other cooling methods are done from a critical temperature that causes a particular molecular size and carbon bonding to take place. These methods are to be found in college texts on metals. For rough purposes, on a shined up piece of 60 point steel sheet, when the material turns to a wheat straw looking gold color, it is at the correct temp to quench. The whole item must be heated to that temp uniformly. Fast movement with a propane/air torch will do it.
Source of massive quantities can be found in metal banding used to bundle materials for shipping, some of it is superior material. If it is too hard to work, anneal it by heating to medium red, and then slow cooling by removing the torch slowly, and then putting it in ashes insulating it so it is soft. Shape it then heat treat it to the spring temper as above.
I know this is long, but I think it is what you are looking for.
Good luck, and good practice.
JimN

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Bob M

05-22-2006 17:26:25




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
Jon - You might try using metal strip from a lawnmower rope starter rewind spring. It's about the right thickness and width. (Be careful as you remove the spring from the housing - it can escape from the housing with a vengeance and bite you if you are not!)

Heat the metal red hot then let it slowly air cool. Now bend annealed (softened) metal into the shape you desire. Or simply bend it hot if you can. Finally reheat to red heat then quench in oil or water.

Alternatively visit a junk yard - an older one with lots of cars built before HEI ignitions became popular (mid 70's) and get a few old distributors. I've successfully adapted clips salvaged from old Delco and Mopar distributors for what you are trying to do. ...Bob M

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Karl Hamson

05-22-2006 16:21:57




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
I have had some success in adding carbon by heating with the flame considerably acetylene rich. Not so it smokes black but with a long feather on the flame. My 2cents



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Magman

05-22-2006 15:52:58




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 Re: Hardening Metal I will tell you why in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
The distributor clips on magnetos are like spring steel and are about 1/32" thick and about 3/8" wide and are so hard that they will break before they bend to much. Well I have about 5 mags here that are missing the clips so I tryed to order with no luck and desided to try and build my own. Out of sheet metal. The heating and dipping in oil helped a little but it still bends by its self under the pressure of holding the cap in place. JON

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Dave_Id

05-22-2006 16:03:23




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 Re: Hardening Metal I will tell you why in reply to Magman, 05-22-2006 15:52:58  
You can make them out of blue tempered shim stock. It's hardened spring steel, and you should be able to buy it wherever you buy your industrial supplies, like MSC.



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Michael Soldan

05-22-2006 15:37:18




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
Hi Magman, I was curious about your post, why harden sheet metal,has it been weakened somehow? Yeah I know I'm nosy but interested in everybody's projects...Mike in Exeter Ontario



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Dave_Id

05-22-2006 15:15:09




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
You can have mild steel "case hardened". It's a process of adding carbon to the surface of the steel, typically very shallow, .010 or so, but can be deeper by request from your heat treater. After it's carburized, then the case can be hardened. I used it alot for making homemade tools for the shop using mild steel, instead of expensive tool steel. One of the advantages of case hardening is that the mild steel is very stable. Great for angle plates, etc. where you don't want the steel to move after grinding everything square. This of course probably wouldn't work well for sheet metal.

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JohnG(TX)

05-22-2006 14:55:52




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 Re: Hardening Metal in reply to MAGMAN, 05-22-2006 13:51:22  
With some metals, you just can not harden them. It all depends upon the amount of carbon mixed in with the iron. Typically, you can not harden low-carbon steels much. They can be 'work hardened' and heat hardened to some degree, but not like a chisel or other parts. Why would you want to harden sheet metal?



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