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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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826 Hydrostat

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Dan-IA

05-18-2006 18:45:22




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This is my first (big) tractor with a hydrostat, but I did have a 16hp lawn mower with a hydro-drive.

Now, on my mower, if you're going full-speed forward or back, and you suddenly jerk the lever back to the middle, it stops-right now. Make the tires slide even!
As for this tractor... You coast to a stop. Eventually. First thing done was to fix the brakes.
Second: the "clutch" pedal. Try this: push that pedal down while moving, slide the lever to neutral, and release the pedal. I've a habit of holding the clutch pedal (which is only a hydraulic release valve, according to my book) until the tractor stops. Having put the lever in the neutral position, I'd expect that when I release the pedal, the tractor would stay put. Not so; it'll start moving again and then coast to a stop. Boy, I'm glad I fixed them brakes!
(I've learned to lock up the brakes before releasing the clutch pedal. This makes a new loud 'whooshing' noise lasting about 3 seconds, but then when I release the brakes the tractor doesn't move.)
Third, I can live with a little hydrostat hiss. I'm used to that. But what's with the loud buzz-saw-on-sheet-steel noise that happens at about 1/3 and 2/3 throttle?

(Looks like oil seepage on the side of the hydro, in front of and just under the cab. I'm guessing the previous owner did some playing with it.)

Tach and hour meter didn't work when I got it. Speedometer quit a couple days ago. But today, as I did a U-turn out of one field and into the next, I witnessed the tach spin up to about 1500rpm before suddenly quitting again. I'm thinking this shouldn't be that big an issue to fix...soon as I'm done planting with it.

Hydraulics bleed down. I've seen that happen before, it's usually a question of finding a bad O-ring someplace. But this is a new one on me: this one bleeds down--with the engine running, even at full throttle! All the hydraulics seem to work, it just bleeds down.

Finally, this tractor has a Year-A-Round QT-1 cab. It's like a tin box with (stuck) windows. What can I do to dampen the noise? Wearing hearing protection (ear muff style), if I sit down I hear a deafening roar in the sub-200Hz range. If I stand up I hear the hydrostatic whine, also at more-than-unpleasantly high volume. But that low roar drowns out the whine when I sit.

So, to summarize my problems: the hydrostat is probably needing adjustments, the hydraulics need work, some gauges are not working. And boy oh boy, is it loud!

Where do I start?

Thanks!

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Allan In NE

05-19-2006 05:36:09




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 Re: 826 Hydrostat in reply to Dan-IA, 05-18-2006 18:45:22  
Hi Dan,

It shouldn't "coast to a stop". That function is controlled by the anti-coast valve and is located in up the control manifold. A lot of guys call these two valves "capsules". Takes about 3 minutes to swap 'em out.

Don't worry about the "clutch". All it is, is a "dump to sump" needle and seat, which empties the line pressure. Just don't see how you can hurt it by using the clutch.

Hope ya get 'er figured out,

Allan

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Sheepdog in NE

05-18-2006 20:07:33




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 Re: 826 Hydrostat in reply to Dan-IA, 05-18-2006 18:45:22  
As far as the FOOT N INCH pedal goes, only use it in emergencies or if your backing up to hook up something. Get used to planting your left foot on the floor boards and not moving it. The movement after you pull the lever back is the piston moving slowly inside the trany, pump and motor, back to neutral postion, thats normal.
Next the buzzing might be the draft or three point lever vibrating in it's slot right of the seat. I've taken an inch long shink tube from the electrical supply house an heat it on the lever as a insulator. It will last forever. Just a wild guess! The tach and speedometer cables could have the square drive ends rounded off so the cables are turning in the female drive or the other end by the tack and speedomoter. New cables. Not sure what bleeds down means. Does the disc go down on its own? The valves under the seat are leaking (the chrome shaft internally) Maybe shaft is scracthed. No o-rings will fix that. It's a machined fit.
As far as being loud besides new liner as said before you are working with a pre 70's system. What are you using it for. Take the cab off. If you are using it in the field be careful not to get the hytran to hot. The hydro was not a tillage tractor. Great for baleing, feedwagon, lite loads. Change hydro filter every year no matter how many hours you put on. Hytran every 2-3.

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BOBM25

05-19-2006 09:31:21




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 Re: 826 Hydrostat in reply to Sheepdog in NE, 05-18-2006 20:07:33  
If you want to keep a cab on it, and don't mind the work, try to swap your Year-a-Round cab for a Hiniker one. Same concept, only the Hiniker is a MUCH quieter cab. We had one of each. The Year-a-Round one on our 856 would just about make your ears bleed!



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Mike S 806/H

05-18-2006 18:59:59




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 Re: 826 Hydrostat in reply to Dan-IA, 05-18-2006 18:45:22  
I never had a Hydro, but I was told not to use the "clutch" pedal on a Hydro, I guess it starves oil to the hydro,



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David Saville

05-18-2006 19:28:50




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 Re: 826 Hydrostat in reply to Mike S 806/H, 05-18-2006 18:59:59  
I just bought a 1026. The previous owner had installed a new cab liner/soundeadner kit as part of the presales tuneup. I am amazed how quite that cab is.



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