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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Stipping down an M...again

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Turbos10

05-11-2006 05:20:28




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Hey guys,

I know this might be a sin to some of you, but I am trying to lighten up my M as much as possible for pulling, and I have a couple questions.

First, I am wondering what is involved in pulling the PTO shaft? Is it as simply as pulling the rear cover and pulling the shaft out?

Also, how does the hydraulic system work and how can it easily be removed. It almost looks to me like area just behind the bell housing is where the hydraulic pump and valving is. There is also a fill tube there that looks as if it has a resevoir indepedent of the differential fluid. It looks like I can pull the bottom cover and get to it, but I would kindof like to know what I am getting into and if it will even do any good to open it up.

Thanks in advanvce....

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Janicholson

05-11-2006 05:44:01




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 Re: Stipping down an M...again in reply to Turbos10, 05-11-2006 05:20:28  
I'm not sure of the PTO removal. The Lift-all pump is very heavy and comes out the bottom, resivoir and all. Remove the control lever, the three pipe fittings sticking out, the cap on the top, and the bolts holding it up (hold it up with a floor jack or other serious method. The drive coupling from the trans lay shaft needs to be vertical so it will slide out downward. Make a plate (aluminum) to go over the hole.

Take off the generator/alternator and wiring to it. A constant loss system, Battery and ignition only might save 40#. Make a smaller hitch system using rigid bars instead of the "U" drawbar, and keep the pull link of the original. Use different front and rear hubs and wheels that weigh less than the cast pieces.

Good hunting, JimN

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Turbos10

05-11-2006 05:51:28




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 Re: Stipping down an M...again in reply to Janicholson, 05-11-2006 05:44:01  
Thanks for the quick help!

The only thing I am confused about on the pump removal is the part about the coupling from the trans lay shaft. You say it need to be vertical? I am not sure how I achieve that?

The alternator is gone and I have a small automotive battery on it. The hitch and wheelie bars I plan on building as light as possible. I will rebuild the draw bar area and shortening the bar up as much as possible(gotta read the rules on length and height). I already have 15.5x38 on steel wheel and am waiting on hubs. I am also going to be building light wieght wide front with steering rack from a mustang or simliar.

Thanks again

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Janicholson

05-11-2006 06:08:25




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 Re: Stipping down an M...again in reply to Turbos10, 05-11-2006 05:51:28  
THe steering rack needs to be from a car/truck with the tierods on the same side (front or rear) of the axle as the system you build. If not it steers backwards. (I helped a neighbor keep from making that mistake once).
The pump is driven by a slotted coupling (look within the last few pages for trans oil seal replacement discussion and pics) the drive hub id grooved, the driven has a rib that fits into it. Remove the thin cover to see it directly. They slip apart along the drive slot, so it needs to be turned vertical. Clutch down in neutral allows free turning by hand. I hope this helps.
JimN

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Turbos10

05-11-2006 06:14:10




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 Re: Stipping down an M...again in reply to Janicholson, 05-11-2006 06:08:25  
Okay, so when you say the thin cover, do you mean the top cover? I will try to find the pictures.



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Janicholson

05-11-2006 09:46:03




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 Re: Stipping down an M...again in reply to Turbos10, 05-11-2006 06:14:10  
The tin cover next to the belly pump on the bottom of front of the trans. The tin cover on the top is probably where the belt pulley drive would go if it had one, it is not related to the pump.
Good luck, JimN



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dej(JED)

05-11-2006 05:41:16




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 Re: Stipping down an M...again in reply to Turbos10, 05-11-2006 05:20:28  
On the PTO simply take the bolts out and pull it out. The belly pump drops down. Remove the lift rod assembly and the 1/2 inch pipe outlets.
Take the bottom bolts out an drop the pump down. Remove the belt pulley assembly and cover with a platethat you will need to make. You can replace the rear wheels and rims with MH 44 hubs and tin rims. Heck I have seen guys make the side rails from aluminum.

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Turbos10

05-11-2006 05:55:12




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 Re: Stipping down an M...again in reply to dej(JED), 05-11-2006 05:41:16  
Thanks!

I am thinking of "revising" the frame to tie it back into the wheelie bars and the differential. It will not cut wieght, but it will make the tractor safer if it decided to chunk a flywheel. I am planning on overturning it to at least 2500 RPM(maybe more :)) and a blanket does not keep me safe if the flywheel decides to saw the tractor in half :(.



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supermpuller

05-11-2006 07:44:13




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 Re: Stipping down an M...again in reply to Turbos10, 05-11-2006 05:55:12  
My SM will make 4500 lbs. with 150 lbs of suitcase on front. I've seen the hot M's in div. 4 and 5 make 3750 with 18.4-38's. Its not hard to get a M at 5,000 lbs.



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