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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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OT/ Trailer brakes

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PUTTER

04-27-2006 06:38:46




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Good morning fellas, I recently bought a tandem axle trailer,7000 gvw, not home made, with a 16ft flat wooden deck. I pulled the wheels off to pack the bearings and found the brakes were all messed up, linings fallen off the shoes. These brakes have something that looks like a magnet, oval shaped, approx. 2"X 3" that contacts the inside of the hub. What do i have? Are these surge brakes or electric brakes? They are really corroded but are only 5 years old. My truck has no controller in the cab so how do they work? Should I upgrade these or replace em, about 200 bucks for parts. I should mention that I want to haul my 340 Farmall about 10 miles on back roads from my home to the farm. Thanks much PUTTER

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marty johns

04-30-2006 19:32:45




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 Re: OT/ Trailer brakes in reply to PUTTER, 04-27-2006 06:38:46  
PUTTER- I am glad that you posted this ? As I am in the RV bussiness and ther is so many folks out there that do'nt realize what it takes to stop a Trl. Here in PA. brakes are required over 2,000 lbs. and you would'nt believe the folks that want an RV and do'nt want to pay the price! Maybe with your Q and afew more eyes will be opened!



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mattofvinings

03-09-2009 15:49:11




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 Re: Farmall M overheating in reply to Matt in WA, 03-09-2009 13:56:02  
Not sure about the M water pump, but if similar to the H waterpump, check for the missing "drive crossbar".

In other words, my old H would overheat quickly the first time I let it run despite the fan belt turning and the fan blowing to beat the band...after some teardown and looking at parts books I figured out that the actual impeller shaft, quietly sticking out thru the center, was not being turned. My best guess was that was why the tractor was taken out of service...

Another possible issue is a blown head gasket, but I'd definitely rule out the other simple possibilities first.
This post was edited by mattofvinings at 15:49:58 03/09/09.

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KEB

04-27-2006 08:01:48




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 Re: OT/ Trailer brakes in reply to PUTTER, 04-27-2006 06:38:46  
You have electric brakes. When you apply current to the magnets, they want to stick to the inside of the hub. The rotation of the wheel drags the magnet along, pulling on the lever holding the magnet, which causes the level to pivot and spread the shoes at the top of the hub to actually apply brakes.

Surge brakes have a sliding connection to the hitch ball receiver connected to a hydraulic brake master cylinder. The brakes on the axles are standard hydraulic brakes. When you stop, the inertia of the trailer pushes against the master cylinder, generating hydrualic pressure to actuate the trailer brakes.

Electric brakes have better control, and have the advantage that you can apply trailer brakes independently of the tow vehicle brakes. Surge brakes are common on rental trailers, since a lot of people don"t have electric brake controllers in their vehicles.

You absolutely need a brake controller, as the amount of trailer braking is controlled by the current through the magnets. If you simply apply 12 volts to the magnets, it"ll lock the brakes (and probably overheat the magnets).

A good electric brake controller like the Tekonsha Prodigy runs around $125. A decent one can be had for less than $100, and for occasional use a cheap one would probably be OK. I"ve seen them as low as $50 or so, but have no idea how well these work.

The output of the brake controller goes to one wire on each of the magnets, and the other magnet wire is grounded (doesn"t matter which is which, brake magnets are not polarized). Don"t depend on the trailer frame for a ground for brakes, as a lot of them use the ball as the return path. Provide a ground wire back to the tow vehicle.

There are several "standard" ways of wiring trailer connectors. The 7-pin RV type is the most common, and you can get them at Wally World or most any auto parts place. The 4-pin flat connector commonly found on small trailers don"t have enough pins to accomodate a brake connection.

We pull an RV as well as utility trailers, & I can guarantee you that you don"t want to pull more than a couple thousand pounds without trailer brakes (plus its illegal in most states). I had a trailer brake fail (broken wire) on the way from California to Colorado with a car on a 7000 GVW flatbed a year or so ago. Even with a one-ton dually tow vehicle, it isn"t an experience I would want to repeat.

Keith

PS - most states also require a breakaway switch on a trailer that heavy. The breakaway switch connects a battery directly to the trailer brakes if the trailer separates from the tow vehicle. You can buy complete kits (switch, battery & cable) if the trailer doesn"t already have one.

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farmerphil

03-09-2009 16:34:13




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 F-12 single front wheel in reply to PUTTER, 04-27-2006 06:38:46  



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PUTTER

04-27-2006 13:26:25




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 Re: OT/ Trailer brakes in reply to KEB, 04-27-2006 08:01:48  
Thank you both very much for the info. I kinda knew what you were going to say about fixing them. It's just hard for me to spend that kind of money on something I don't use that often, but I bit the bullet and ordered the parts. Keith, I went with the prodigy, after looking at all the different ones it was an easy choice. It came with a free wiring harness that will plug right in to my pickup. Thanks a lot Now I should have a first class hauling rig. PUTTER

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KEB

04-27-2006 19:56:20




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 Re: OT/ Trailer brakes in reply to PUTTER, 04-27-2006 13:26:25  
Glad to help. Forgot to mention, if you have Dexter axles (the most common) you can download the manuals from their website. I know how you feel, I'm just finishing up overhauling the brakes on my flatbed gooseneck after spending over $200 in parts.

Good luck,

Keith



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john *.?-!.* cub owner

04-27-2006 18:43:37




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 Re: OT/ Trailer brakes in reply to PUTTER, 04-27-2006 13:26:25  
I know it's a little late to mention this, but TSc, as well as many other places and trialer supply places will sell you a complete axle with brakes chaper than you cna buy the reapr parts.

When you get a controller, get an inertia type contorller, not a time based one.



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Janicholson

04-27-2006 06:51:48




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 Re: Not too far OT/ Trailer brakes in reply to PUTTER, 04-27-2006 06:38:46  
Youhave electrically operated brakes. Yes you need them a lot... Clean everything, the electrical solenoids in the wheels should be grounded on one lead, and connected to the wire to the hitch on the other. The shoes and broken springs (and turning the drums if there are noticable ridges, or scoring.
self adjusters are also critical for proper operation. A trailer shop should have diagrams and knowledge for your necessary repair. Your tractor will get you in deep trouble without brakes on the trailer. Your truck will need a controller installed in the cab.
Good Luck, be safe, JimN

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